On Kauai, It's More Fun Wet Than Dry

Back in the town of Waimea, we enjoy a well-earned shave ice, a Hawaiian staple, at JoJo's Clubhouse, said to have the best on the island. The service is slow, but the result, picked from more than 60 flavors, is well worth it: mango, guava and pineapple syrup over shaved ice, with macadamia nut ice cream on the bottom.

Wet, Wet, Wet

Kauai's serrated skyline, sculpted by water, includes the one of wettest spots on Earth: the top of Mount Waialeale (Hawaiian for "rippling waters") in the center of the island, which receives an average of 440 inches of rain -- almost 37 feet -- per year.

Rainfall plus steep terrain equals waterfalls, and many of Kauai's are easily accessible. Kipu Falls is near Lihue, with 5,600 inhabitants the largest town on the island. A five-minute hike along a sugar cane field leads to a 20-foot rock cliff that borders a large natural pool surrounded by tropical vegetation.

There's a definite local vibe to the place. Young guys in swim trunks and flip-flops, Kauai's unofficial uniform, lounge on the rocks near the falls, watching friends climb out onto tree limbs like monkeys to retrieve rope swings.

When I get up the courage to play Tarzan myself, they insist I go first. The knotted rope is thick and rough, at the highest point in its swing, when you let go, the moment of weightlessness seems to last forever. A few seconds of falling is an eternity, and the water is a cold crash back to reality.

Two much larger waterfalls are also a short drive from Lihue. Wailua Falls, a mile or so northwest, is 173 feet from top to bottom, and Opaekaa Falls, west of the town of Wailua, measure 151 feet high. You can hike to the bottom of both to swim in the pools, although the trails are steep and unmaintained. The only ropes in sight are tied between trees to prevent tumbles.

After a few swings at Kipu Falls, we decide that's enough shaking for one day and head to Lydgate State Park near Wailua, one of more than 40 white-sand beaches around the island. Ever since a rough semicircle of boulders was built out from the beach, Lydgate has been one of the most popular places on the island to learn to snorkel. The volcanic rocks keep out the force of the surf but let fish through, and visitors are allowed to feed them.

Without any snacks to offer, we find we're not very popular underwater. A goatfish taps little feelers near its mouth called barbels over the rocks in search of something to eat, and a shy little flounder lies camouflaged on the bottom, its eyes peeking from the sand.

The beach, a short walk away, is nearly deserted. Unable to do nothing quite yet, we compromise on reading guidebooks to decide where to go next. It feels like the first time we've sat still during daylight since we got here three days ago, and it's long overdue.

Hawaiian Treats

Kauai's north shore is a lush, mellow microcosm. It's even wetter and greener than the rest of the island, with an end-of-the-road feel that culminates in the unique profile of the Na Pali Coast. No one is in a hurry here -- people often drive under the speed limit, and every financial transaction takes twice as long as it would back home. At the same time, everyone seems cheerful and friendly, whether it's from living in or just visiting what many would call paradise.

There's plenty to see on the drive there for those wearied by active vacations. The 52-foot Kilauea Lighthouse was built in 1913 on the northernmost tip of the island, fitted with a Fresnel lens that weighed four tons and could be seen 20 miles out to sea. The lens was replaced by a more powerful electric beacon in 1976, and today the lighthouse is a national historic landmark. It anchors a national wildlife refuge, home to great frigate birds, red-footed boobies and the nene, an endemic goose that is Hawaii's state bird.

Five miles south is the 450-acre Guava Kai Plantation, source of half of Hawaii's crop. The sweet yellow-skinned guava (technically a large berry) has three times as much vitamin C as an orange, and is good for treating intestinal upsets. The plant was brought from South America to Hawaii in 1791, where it became the most common wild fruit in the state. About 12 million pounds are harvested by hand here every year.