In Paris, Eleventh Heaven

The Pure is only one in a string of these all-encompassing neighborhood spots. Another all-day cafe, closer to the hub of the Bastille, is La Fee Verte (the Green Fairy, 108 Rue de la Roquette), a light and airy alternative with some of the most delicious and affordable food in Paris. The menu changes seasonally, with one option being a sumptuous entree of pasta with baby squid in a crustacean sauce for about $17. La Fee Verte is named for the symbolist poet's beverage choice, absinthe, of which a watered-down, non-hallucinogenic version is available for the nostalgic drinker. The absinthe, which may not be as potent as Rimbaud's but lacks none of the distinctive emerald greenness, is served in a glass contraption complete with multiple silver faucets that trickle the liquid onto a strainer fitted with sugar cubes.

Even farther flung is La Caravane (35 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi), a funky corner bar and restaurant near the Place de la Republique (which separates the second, third and 11th arrondissements). If you are able to withstand a bit of scruffiness at the edges, La Caravane is a perfect introduction to the low-key world of 11th-dwellers. This is one of those rare neighborhood cafes that feels like a good friend's apartment, with its dilapidated couches, chatty waiters and living room-esque back room, complete with a window onto a private courtyard. Come for dinner with friends (don't miss the homemade desserts, always scrumptious), the revolving exhibitions of local artists (the most recent featured striking black-and-white photography of Morocco) and the giant bowl of punch that serves 10 and creates an instant party.

Should you feel like dancing to work off that creme brulee, one of Paris's most down-to-earth nightclubs makes its home in the 11th. Le Pop In (105 Rue Amelot) is a haven for rock and pop music fans who love to drink cheap beer while dancing to an inspired mix of music. It offers an interesting alternative to those who are allergic to cover charges, Eurotrash house music and crowds of American exchange students. Le Pop In is cramped and airless, to be sure (all dancing takes place in a minuscule windowless basement), but it remains an excellent bet in a city that is unfortunately lacking in that age-old hipster recipe: good music and cheap drinks.

* * *

Despite possible appearances, especially on a sunny Sunday afternoon, the 11th is great for more than just eating and drinking. Fashion has trickled in but remains a low-key, downtown affair, thankfully devoid of most of the big names that occupy the more established shopping districts. The best shopping in the 11th is still the territory of original designers who have chosen to strike out on their own.

One of the most exciting of these innovators is Sissi Holleis, an Austrian who has chosen a nondescript side street off of Rue Oberkampf for her namesake boutique (3 Rue de Nemours). Holleis's store features her own line, an impish, modern take on women's and kids' wear, alongside vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. You can pick up a black lacy top with Liberty print edging for about $120, the perfect mixture of punk and pretty. You may even catch sight of Holleis herself, svelte and blond on a retro bicycle with a child seat toting one of her offspring.

Another 11th fashionista mainstay is the boutique Nuits de Satin (9 Rue Oberkampf). The main floor features a charming hodgepodge of vintage designer goods, including scores of dresses, shoes and purses and a notable collection of fur.

The basement, however, is a Parisian coquette's real delight: a trove of vintage lingerie, all in amazingly good condition. There are lacy bustiers, corsets and snappy garter belts in a rainbow of sherbet shades, along with enough trailing nighties, bare negligees and elegant dressing gowns to make you feel like Catherine Deneuve circa 1959. The owner, Anna, a black-haired vamp straight out of Tim Burton's imagination, may just invite you to one of her completely authentic '60s soirees.

The "concept store," combining all you could theoretically need under one roof, has been a Paris shopping highlight since the uber-chic Colette opened its doors in the prime retail district of the first arrondissement. Now even the counterculture 11th has its own, the only branch outside Tokyo of the Japanese phenomenon No. 44. No. 44-II (59 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud) is in the developing nether-region bordered by Rue Oberkampf, Place de la Republique and Belleville, in a lovely little neighborhood grouped around the Parmentier Metro station.

Wth its red decor, soaring ceilings and knotty wood floors, No. 44-II seems more like an art gallery or performance space than a boutique. There is an inviting, casual vibe, perhaps stemming from the owner's wish for it to be a neighborhood meeting place. And should you choose to shop while hanging out, there are plenty of well-chosen products in the highly edited collection. There is drapy Japanese clothing for both men and women, cool sneakers by Vans and Adidas, and edgy unisex jewelry. The fact that this unassuming corner of the 11th was chosen as the locale for such a novel boutique is proof of the area's potential.

Rory Satran, a resident of the 11th, last wrote for Travel on where to find small extravagances in Paris.