Sweet Ways to End the Feast

To my mind, there is no doubt about the choice for Thanksgiving dessert: It is going to be pie, and pies must have a crust.

Pie-crust makers seem to fall into two categories. There are those who think that making a crust is perfectly natural. Then there are those who can easily whip up a feast for 10 but panic at the thought of making a basic pie crust. For years, I was in the panic group, until I realized that my family recipe file held the solution to a foolproof pie crust.

My mother had often made a cream cheese press-in crust for her miniature pecan tarts. The dough was rolled into little balls and pressed into mini-muffin pans. I decided to try to roll this never-fail buttery crust and to use it for a pie. After sifting the flour (for lightness) and adding a little salt (to enhance the flavor), I mixed the usual dough and tried rolling it.

It worked. The method is as easy as beating butter and cream cheese to blend them smoothly, then mixing in flour and salt. It takes less than two minutes. It rolls out easily and bakes into an especially tender crust.

Both butter and cream cheese should be full fat and not whipped. The dough can be prepared a day ahead and chilled overnight, but it must sit at room temperature until it can be rolled easily.

This crust works for both a bubbling, deep-dish apple and cranberry pie and a sophisticated pear and almond tart. Both can be made one day ahead and refrigerated. Take them out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving, just as Thanksgiving dinner is winding down.

Cream Cheese Pie Crust

Makes enough crust for one 9-inch pie pan or a 9 1/2 -inch tart pan

An electric stand mixer makes quick work of this crust, and a hand-held electric mixer will do a fine job. The dough can be refrigerated overnight, but it will have to sit at room temperature until it is soft enough to roll.

1 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

8 tablesooons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature