DETAILS

Athens, Ga., Music Scene

GETTING THERE: US Airways offers connecting service from Dulles or Reagan National to Athens, with restricted, round-trip fares beginning at $259. Or fly from the Washington area to Atlanta (fares from $183), a little more than an hour's drive away.

WHERE TO STAY: The eight-room Magnolia Terrace Guest House (277 Hill St., 706-548-3860, http://www.bbonline.com/ga/magnoliaterrace ) is a 93-year-old Colonial revival house set in a leafy neighborhood. The pleasant porch could still use some cleaning, but the inside is lovely -- and it's an easy walk to the 40 Watt Club and other venues. Double rooms from $95 weekdays, $110 weekends.

Broad Street has a number of hotels, including the Holiday Inn Athens (197 E. Broad St., 888-465-4329, http://www.hi-athens.com/inn/index.html ), near downtown. Rooms feel newer than the building's somewhat dated facade. Doubles from about $75.

WHERE TO EAT: The Grit (199 Prince Ave., 706-543-6592) is an Athens classic, a vegetarian restaurant that employs lots of musicians -- in a building owned by R.E.M.'s Michael Stipe, no less. Entrees from $4 to $7. For a more upscale meal with a music pedigree, seek out the Last Resort Grill (174-184 W. Clayton St., 706-549-0810), which opened as a music venue in 1966 and hosted Jimmy Buffett, Doc Watson and others. Now it's a fine-dining spot with a Southern flair (try the crab cake and fried green tomatoes appetizers). Dinner entrees are $8 to $27.

MUSIC: With some exceptions, the music scene in Athens lives west of Lumpkin Street downtown, with West Washington Street at the center of things. For music listings, see Flagpole ( http://www.flagpole.com/ ), a free weekly with a good visitors guide. Covers and tickets usually run $3 to $12, though big touring acts at the 40 Watt Club and Georgia Theatre can cost $20 or more. Venues include:

The 40 Watt Club (285 W. Washington St., 706-549-7871, http://www.40watt.com/ ) has a reputation for bringing in the biggest local and touring indie rockers, as well as other acts on the way up. Good atmosphere: Christmas tree lights strung from the ceiling and appropriately ratty furniture in the corners.

The Georgia Theatre (215 N. Lumpkin St., 706-549-9918, http://www.georgiatheatre.com/ ) is Athens's other big venue with a balconied building that brings in country singers, jam bands and an increasing number of edgier shows.

The Caledonia Lounge (256 W. Clayton St., 706-549-5577, http://www.caledonialounge.com/ ) is best known as an indie rock venue. Find this smallish room by walking through the parking lot at the corner of West Clayton and Pulaski streets.

Flicker Theatre and Bar (263 W. Washington St., 706-546-0039, http://www.flickerbar.com/ ) has a curtain dividing it into an intimate 75-person music venue (40 for seated shows) and a bar with atmospheric lighting. Shows tend to be mellow and start earlier (usually about 8:30 p.m.) than other venues.

Tasty World (312 E. Broad St., 706-543-0797, http://www.tastyworld.net/ ), a two-level club on the main strip running past the University of Georgia campus, is a bit outside Athens's main music area. It's a cool building with exposed brick walls and hardwood floors. The first floor regularly hosts a wide-ranging selection of live music, the second has bands less frequently.

INFO: Athens Convention and Visitors Bureau, 800-653- 0603, http://www.visitathensga.com/ .

-- Ben Brazil