U Rock, U Roll

Now that would have been cool.

Beginning with the arty alterna-rock of the early '80s, Athens's music has gone through phases; the late '90s and early 2000s, for instance, belonged to the psychedelic pop of the Elephant 6 collective, an amorphous group of musicians involved in such bands as Olivia Tremor Control and Neutral Milk Hotel. Widespread Panic, Phish's apparent successor as the nation's jam-band kings, has also left its mark.

Now, locals say the scene is diverse, with a strong bluegrass and Americana scene, as well as jazz, hard rock and country.

"Not only will you get to see anything, but you'll get to see great music," said Bob Sleppy, executive director of Nuci's Space. "I think one of the great things about Athens is that kind of friendly competition breeds really great work. The people sitting here watching you are musicians, too, so you want to put on your best show."

True. But after more than 1,200 miles driving, nearly 30 musical acts and many, many cheap beers, I needed sleep. And water. And probably hearing aids.

Luckily, I went out one more night, because I discovered my favorite band of the trip -- an all-female, Chapel Hill rock duo called the Moaners -- at Tasty World, a club across the street from the university campus.

Alternately reclining against the bar and the red steel girders that support the building's upper floors, I tapped my foot as singer-guitarist Melissa Swingle sneered her wicked Southern accent over a slide guitar. After the show, I made a halfhearted, exhausted attempt to strike up a conversation as Swingle ordered a beer, but she brushed me off.

Yup, time to go home. I was starting to feel like a groupie.

Ben Brazil last wrote for Travel on Ouray, Colo.

For more trip suggestions and info, visit our Travel section.