After Wilma, Is Mexico Ready For Some Fun?

Mayan Riviera

Tom and Judy Lampley and Kevin and Susan McAteer, all of Alexandria, made their plans to visit the Mayan Riviera four months before Hurricane Wilma struck. They left home early this month wondering what they'd find, but were pleased they hadn't allowed airline snafus to keep them away.

They discovered by chance that their flights on Delta, booked through Expedia, had been canceled, but they received refunds and found other flights at the last minute. For their perseverance, they were rewarded with beachfront condos in Akumal that had been thoroughly cleaned of the three feet of sand that had covered the floors just after the hurricane. And they enjoyed blue skies and empty beaches.

"There are fewer people than usual. It's quiet and really nice," said Susan. "We are so impressed with the workers," added Tom. "Everywhere you see damage, a crew is working on it." Every tourist I spoke to repeated similar sentiments, with the only complaints being about canceled flights that left them scurrying for alternatives.

The so-called Mayan Riviera, which stretches approximately 40 miles between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, was spared the worst of the hurricane. The area is largely back to normal.

That verdict includes, or is about to include, the two major attractions that bring busloads of tourists from Cancun: Xel-Ha and Xcaret.

Xcaret is a 200-acre attraction set in the jungle, with manicured areas that re-create Mayan and Mexican life. The birds have all returned, including dozens of bright red, blue and yellow macaws, and iguanas wander the grounds. The aquarium and butterfly farm seem untouched; four manatees are eating fresh lettuce thrown by one of the 1,500 staff members and 400 additional construction workers who have been working on the property since a day or two after the hurricane.

A dolphin swim program had already gone back into operation when I visited. Although Xcaret was not set to open for a week (the official opening date is tomorrow), the local craftsmen who make their wares in the park were already weaving and carving, stockpiling crafts for the tourists they hope will return.

At Xel-Ha, a government-owned preserve that has been partially developed for tourists, workers planted 10,000 new trees in anticipation of the Dec. 3 opening. The property, home to 40 species of birds, draws visitors who spend the day swimming or kayaking the lagoon and miles of underground river, or getting into the water with dolphins.

Two days before reopening, workers who weren't busy making last-minute touch-ups were swimming with the dolphins. Trainers, a spokeswoman explained, were worried that the dolphins would get bored if they had no human interaction, and besides, the workers deserved a treat.

The government is going ahead with plans to start building an international airport near Tulum, where a massive Mayan archaeological site sits on the ocean about 80 miles from Cancun. Actually, I'm sad to hear that my favorite, sleepy little corner of Mexico will likely be consumed by the massive development that generally follows airports. Consider going before that happens.

Cozumel

The island of Cozumel took a particularly hard hit but, like Cancun, raced into action.

Cruise companies said they would return only after 70 percent of the stores had reopened and half of the tours were operating. By Nov. 14, Cozumel had met the demand. As of early this month, 90 percent of all stores and restaurants had reopened, and 60 of 70 tours were operating, according to Raul Marrufo, director of the Cozumel Tourism Promotion Board.