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Cofresi, D.R.

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Sunday, December 18, 2005

GETTING THERE: The closest international airport to Cofresi is in Puerto Plata; round-trip fares from the D.C. area start at about $575, with restrictions, on Continental from BWI. Fares to Santo Domingo from D.C. start at about $325 round trip on Delta from Reagan National.

From Santo Domingo, a three-hour cab ride to Cofresi costs about $100, or take a cab from the airport to the Caribe Tours bus station downtown and buy a $7 ticket to Puerto Plata, and then take another quick cab ride to Cofresi from there. Buses leave every hour on the hour from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., but be prepared to whip out your Spanish dictionary -- the ticket agents don't speak English.

GETTING AROUND: Cofresi is small enough to walk through, but if you want to explore Puerto Plata or neighboring cities, you'll need a cab. Negotiate rates upfront, and if you know your schedule, negotiate a round-trip rate and the driver will come back for you. Round-trip fare to Puerto Plata should be $20, but it's best to pay in Dominican pesos to avoid losing money in the exchange rate. The easiest way to find a cab is to walk to Sun Village, at the town's entrance.

WHERE TO STAY: The most comprehensive list of villas in Cofresi is at VRBO (Vacation Rentals by Owner); check http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/caribbean#503 for selections. Many provide a cook and housekeeper and are near the beach. Each listing will give details and show pictures. The three-bedroom Villa del Sol, where I stayed, cost $95 a night and included maid and cook service. Rates climb to $398 a night for Vista del Mar ( http://www.cofresidr.com/ ), a stunning five-bedroom villa with a pool. The most expensive time to rent is from mid-December through April, the high season.

For those who prefer to have everything taken care of, the all-inclusive Sun Village Resort and Spa offers multiple bars, buffets and swimming pools and live entertainment starting at $115 per person per night for a standard room, depending on the season. Info: 888-446-4695, http://www.sunvillageresortandspa.com/ .

WHERE TO EAT: If your villa includes a cook, you should be able to pick out your menu, pay for the groceries and enjoy delicious, home-cooked Dominican specialties (or American specialties, if you're not feeling adventurous). The Dominican diet consists mostly of seafood, chicken, rice, beans, plantains, fresh fruit and pasta.

Chris and Mady's is a popular thatched-roof meat-and-seafood restaurant that doubles as a sports bar, across the street from the beach. Chris is a Canadian who married Dominican Mady, and the menu is a hybrid of both cuisines. Steak and seafood dishes are in the $10 to $15 range.

Le Papillon, about a half mile down the road from Cofresi, is an intimate restaurant set on a covered pavilion and surrounded by forest. The menu features filet mignon, chateaubriand, pork, shrimp, lobster and nightly specials, all ranging from $10 to $25. If you hit the right night, you'll enjoy live guitar music.

WHAT TO DO: A Jeep safari tour is the unanimous favorite among visitors. It runs $40 a person, including lunch. The tour can be booked through your villa's manager, through Sun Village, or through Outback Safari (809-244-4886, http://www.outbacksafari.com.do/ ). Other tour options include white-water rafting in the country's interior ($85 per person for a public, $100 per person for a private tour with a minimum of four people), and charter fishing trips with a local fisherman ($60 per person including drinks, or $375 for the entire boat with a maximum of seven people). Talk to the villa manager or the Sun Village reception desk.

The Brugal Rum Factory offers free tours of its bottling facility in Puerto Plata Mondays through Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon and 2 to 5 p.m. The tour ends with a free sample. Info: 809-261-1888.

The beach town of Sosu a is a half-hour, $25 cab ride from Cofresi. It's a worthwhile day trip if only for its flawless beach and colorful restaurants. The town is larger than Cofresi (and more crowded) but offers a wider array of dining, nightlife and shopping options.

INFO: Dominican Republic Tourism Board, 888-374-6361, http://www.dominicanrepublic.com/Tourism .

-- Taryn Luntz



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