DETAILS

Finnish Lapland

GETTING THERE: Numerous airlines fly from all three D.C. area airports to Helsinki, but none is nonstop. Round-trip fares begin at about $582. (FinnAir flies nonstop from New York.)

FinnAir provides service within the country, and you can buy a combination ticket from FinnAir that will include a U.S. carrier to New York, then FinnAir to Helsinki and on to Lapland airports. Round-trip airfare from D.C. to Rovaniemi starts at about $875. From D.C. to Kittila, it's $1,560; D.C.to Kemi, $2,000.

From Helsinki, we took an overnight train to Rovaniemi (tickets start at about $85 per person each way. Details: http://www.vr.fi/ , 011- 358-9-2319-2902), then a four-hour bus ride to Muonio. (The bus fare begins at about $80 each way. Details: http://www.matkahuolto.fi/ and http://www.linja-autoliitto.fi/ .) By morning, I wished I'd flown.

GETTING AROUND: Buses and trains are available even between small villages, and Lapland has several airports. Unless you're extremely experienced driving on snowy roads, don't think about renting a car in winter.

WHERE TO STAY: The Finnish Tourist Board (see below) lists 48 hotels and "holiday centers" or "holiday villages"(resorts with on-site activities). Nearly all are open year-round. We stayed at the Harriniva Holiday Centre (Muonio, 011-358-16-530-0300, http://www.harriniva.fi/ ), a family-owned operation since 1973. Most rooms in the main lodge have a sleeping loft above a sitting area with kitchenette, and some rooms are in cabins that dot the property. A double room begins at $106 per night in winter, or $214 with breakfast and dinner. Although not luxurious, the rooms are pleasant, ski-chalet style, with walls of natural wood and down comforters. Winter activities -- mention when booking a room what you'd like to do -- include guided snowshoe tours ($48), dog-sled tours ($70), snowmobile safaris (from $113), reindeer-led sleigh rides ($187) and cross-country ski school ($48). More adventurous activities include a two-day husky safari with an overnight in a wilderness hut ($525).

PACKAGES: The Finnish Tourist Board lists dozens of tour operators that can arrange packages. For example, Scantours (800-223-7226, http://www.scantours.com/ ) has a three-night land-only package, including activities, some meals and hotels, starting at $885 per person.

ICEBREAKER CRUISE: The Sampo icebreaker cruise, including a dip in icy water in a survival suit and an excellent lunch, costs about $230. Add $155 if you want to drive to and from the ship on a snowmobile. Details: 011-358-16-256-548, http://www.sampotours.com/ .

INFORMATION: Finnish Tourist Board , 212-885-9700 (800-346-4636 for brochures), http://www.visitfinland.com/na .

-- Cindy Loose