Duck Debate: Crisp Or Juicy

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 generous tablespoon honey

Remove the fat from the cavity of the duck. Rinse the duck under cool running water and pat it dry with paper towels. Using the tines of a fork or the tip of a sharp paring knife, prick the duck all over, being careful to puncture only the skin, not the meat.

In a small bowl, combine the salt and pepper. Sprinkle it into the cavity and over the surface of the duck. Place the celery, carrot, onion, garlic and bunch of thyme in the cavity.

Place the duck, breast side up, in the steamer you've created. Pour about 1 inch of water into the pot, cover the pan tightly and steam over medium heat for 1 hour. The skin should be tender.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Have ready a wire rack placed inside a roasting pan.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the wine, vinegar, honey and chopped thyme, stirring occasionally, until the honey is fully incorporated. Remove from the heat.

Carefully uncover the steamer. Using a sturdy wooden spoon stuck in the cavity and a large metal spatula beneath the duck, transfer the bird to the wire rack in the roasting pan. Roast for 30 minutes.

Reduce the heat to 375 degrees and brush the bird all over with some of the wine-honey mixture. Baste repeatedly with more of the mixture every few minutes, for 15 minutes, or until the skin is a dark mahogany brown and the meat is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh meat should register 180 degrees). You should have about half of the basting liquid left. Carefully transfer the duck to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and set aside to rest for 10 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, return the pan with the remaining wine-honey mixture to medium heat and simmer for a few minutes. To serve, drizzle the warmed sauce over the carved pieces of duck, or pass on the side.

The cooking method precludes accurate nutritional analysis.

Recipe tested by Michael Taylor; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com

Madeira Sauce

4 servings

I start this sauce before I begin to cook the duck. While the duck is roasting, the sauce has time to build flavor and consistency. Since no one eats the wings on the duck, I remove them after cleaning the bird and saut them along with other duck parts to flavor the sauce.

1 tablespoon olive oil, duck fat or bacon fat

1 duck neck, chopped into 1-inch pieces

Duck gizzards (not the liver)

2 duck wings

1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 celery stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 onion, sliced into thick half-rounds

1/4 cup Madeira, plus additional as necessary

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 cups water

1 sprig thyme

5 whole black peppercorns

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon flour

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a large heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add the neck, gizzards and wings and cook, stirring as necessary, until they are well-browned and there are plenty of brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, about 10 minutes. Add the carrot, celery and onion and cook, stirring as necessary, until the vegetables begin to brown.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, carefully add the Madeira and, using a spoon, stir to scrape up the bits from the skillet and incorporate them into the deglazing liquid, which should turn a rich brown. This should take about 3 minutes. Add the white wine, water, thyme and peppercorns and simmer until the liquid is reduced by about half, about 45 minutes.

While the duck rests, remove any remaining fat from the roasting pan and strain any cooking juices into the simmering sauce. If you roasted the duck directly on the bottom of the pan rather than on a rack, place the roasting pan over medium-low heat, add a small amount of additional Madeira and scrape up any bits from the roasting pan, then add that to the sauce. Strain the sauce into a medium bowl, discarding any solids.

In a small bowl, mash the butter and flour into a smooth paste. Pour the hot sauce back into the pan, place over medium heat and whisk in just enough of the butter-flour mixture, adding a little at a time, so that the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 113 calories, 1 g protein, 5 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 8 mg cholesterol, 2 g saturated fat, 90 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Hal Mehlman; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com

Red Rice and Bulgur Pilaf

4 servings

This combination of whole grains, dried fruit and almonds has all the elements of an elegant, seasonal side dish. Yet there's hardly any cooking to do. The components -- any or all of which can be prepared days ahead -- are simply assembled at the cook's convenience, without too much concern for precise measurements.

The finished pilaf adds multiple layers of color and crunch to the plate and goes so well with duck or other rich meats you needn't tell anyone that it is also extremely healthful.

It may be made a day or two ahead and refrigerated, covered, then brought back to room temperature to serve.

2/3 cup red rice, such as Lotus Foods' Bhutanese Red Rice

2/3 cup bulgur wheat*

About 1 cup boiling water

1/4 cup raisins, plumped for 5 minutes in warm water and drained (may substitute 1/4 cup dried cranberries or dried cherries or seeds from

1/2 pomegranate)

2 medium shallots, finely chopped

1/4 cup unsalted almonds, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, or to taste (may substitute cider or red wine vinegar)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook the rice according to package directions and set aside. Place the bulgur in a medium bowl and add the boiling water until just covered. Cover tightly and set aside to steam. Check the bulgur for doneness after 15 minutes, adding more boiling water as needed. The bulgur is done when the grains have completely absorbed the water and are tender, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the plumped raisins, shallots, almonds, parsley, oil, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Add the cooked rice and bulgur. Toss well and adjust salt and pepper to taste.

*NOTE: Bulgur is cracked wheat that has been precooked. It's in the pasta and rice aisle of many grocery stores.

Per serving: 257 calories, 7 g protein, 42 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 57 mg sodium, 8 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Marcia Kramer; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com

Seared Sweet & Sour Brussels Sprouts

4 servings

The trouble with Brussels sprouts is they too often are overcooked, soggy and just plain boring. Boil 'em, swirl 'em in butter -- could anything be more bland?

These Brussels sprouts are alive with a surprising depth of flavor and color. They are touched by fire in a hot pan until caramelized (preferably on a well-ventilated stove), then crowned with alternating accents of vinegar and sugar. No spongy flabbiness here. These brasssicas have soul.

This dish may be prepared ahead and refrigerated, covered, then reheated when ready to serve.

3/4 to 1 pound Brussels sprouts, stem ends trimmed and sprouts cut in half lengthwise, removing any discolored leaves

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the sprouts and cook until just done, or even slightly underdone, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain, return sprouts to the empty pot and fill with cold water to stop sprouts from cooking further. Drain again and blot sprouts well with paper towels.

In a large pan or skillet over high heat, add the oil. Add the sprouts and cook until they begin to brown deeply on one side, 1 to 2 minutes. (This will create some smoke.) Toss once or twice more while continuing to cook until the sprouts are alternately bright green and well-browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the vinegar, sugar and salt and pepper to taste and toss until the liquid is almost evaporated. Serve warm.

Per serving: 109 calories, 3 g protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 71 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Marcia Kramer; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com

Freelance writer Ed Bruske last wrote for Food about a Mexican fonda in Adams Morgan.