Jazz on U

On any given night, U Street literally pulses with music. Rap from cruising SUVs sends shivers through the sidewalk. DJs spin hip-hop and soul for the stylish sets at such clubs as Republic Gardens and Bar Nun. Punk and indie rock shatters the relative late-night quiet at the Velvet Lounge. And go-go and reggae percolate at various bars along the stretch.

But on the soundtrack of U Street, live jazz is still king. A link to the area's once vibrant past, a component of its revitalization and a growing part of its promising future, it can be heard up and down the street in snug informal lounges, bustling restaurants and serious listening rooms alike.

Duke Ellington, Shirley Horn, Dizzy Gillespie, Ella Fitzgerald, Miles Davis and countless other jazz greats all performed on U Street, helping the music flourish there and in the surrounding neighborhood from the 1920s through the early 1960s. But with changing tastes and ultimately, the riots and unrest of the tumultuous '60s, the fortunes of jazz -- and the rest of U Street -- flagged. It wasn't until the current renewal began nearly a decade ago that "America's music" sought to reclaim its place on the street.

While it makes sense that jazz would take hold in the shadow of Ellington's mural (on U between 12th and 13th streets), no one would argue that the music offerings on U Street today equal the high-water mark set by Washington's legendary musician. Still, there is reason for great optimism for jazz lovers in Washington. Few American cities can offer as many promising live jazz options within just a few centrally located blocks of each other.

"The jazz life has really begun to come back," says Addie Green, owner of the Islander Caribbean Restaurant and Lounge, which presents live jazz on Saturday and Sunday evenings. "It's a really nice thing to see emerge out of a dormant neighborhood."

In 1997, Green's restaurant was one of the first to reintroduce jazz on the street. Her son Brian, who produces the U Street Jazz Series, convinced his mother to let him schedule live jazz at the restaurant, and the nights were an immediate success.

Soon, more establishments, including U-Topia and Cafe Nema, added jazz to their weekly lineups. Bohemian Caverns, a club with a storied history that had been shuttered for years, underwent an extensive renovation and reopened in 2000. After several address changes, HR-57, a revered center for jazz, found a home just a few blocks off of U. And Twins Lounge, a renowned jazz club and restaurant on Colorado Avenue NW, opened its second location, Twins Jazz, on U Street. In recent years, newer restaurants such as JoJo, Duke's City, Alero and Sala Thai have all included at least one night of live jazz on their weekly entertainment schedules.

Though jazz has ascended to concert halls, grand ballrooms and arenas, a small club is still the best place to absorb the essence of the music. Sitting at the bar at Twins earlier this month, Larry Willis said that playing in a small club allows for a connection with the audience. The renowned jazz keyboardist, who has performed with everyone from Hugh Masakela to Stan Getz and Cannonball Adderley, enjoys the inspiration of a tight room. "Any artist at some point needs to be able to perform in a fairly intimate setting," he says. "If you're really talking about art, you want people to respond to what you're trying to do, and you want to be able to see them respond."

With that in mind, here are 10 intimate venues within just a few blocks of one another that include live jazz on their weekly schedules:

JOJO

You don't have to be inside at JoJo to absorb the jazz scene. The house band performs with its back to the big front window of this small bar and restaurant, so passersby on the street can enjoy the music without entering. But there are lots of good reasons to go inside, including a friendly staff and often stellar music. There's live jazz from 9:30 p.m. until 1 a.m. every night except Mondays and Fridays. Thursdays are particularly promising, with the Thad Wilson group holding down a regular slot. No cover. JoJo Restaurant and Bar, 1518 U St. NW. 202-319-9350. http://www.jojoresandbar.com/ .

U-TOPIA