DETAILS San Miguel de Allende

GETTING THERE: The closest international airport is Guanajuato-Leon Airport, 65 miles to the west. American and Continental have daily flights from Washington. Continental flies from all three Washington area airports via Houston; fares start at $394 on its Web site. American flies from BWI or Reagan National via Dallas, for $538 on Travelocity.

There are numerous airport transportation services in San Miguel as well as dependable taxis. Prices ranged from $40 for a single pickup to $25 per person for a van full. Arrangements should be made in advance: Viajes Vertiz American Express Travel Services, telephone 011-52-415-152-1856.

WHERE TO STAY: Rental properties and B&Bs are plentiful, but they book well in advance for favored dates: February and March, Easter and Christmas, although one agent said there is no longer a peak season -- "It's all peak season now."

San Miguel House Rentals (U.S. telephone 512-351-4304, http://www.san-miguel-house-rentals.com/ ) lists more than 60 properties in various price ranges. We booked our five-bedroom villa, which was within walking distance of markets, restaurants and the Jardin, nine months in advance and locked in the price at $2,000 a week. By the time we arrived, it had gone up $2,500. We liked the freedom of having a kitchen and lots of space to get away from each other as well as to spread out painting gear.

Casa Quetzal Hotel (34 Hospicio, U.S. telephone 425-223-4135, http://www.casaquetzalhotel.com/ ) is a melange of old Mexico and Pacific Rim, with fireplaces in all rooms. Rates start at $175 per night double and include breakfast. To stay more cheaply, you need to get away from the Jardin. Three blocks away, by the artisan market and the public library, the B&B Casa Calderoni (4 Callejon del Pueblito, 011-52-415-154- 6005, http://www.casacalderoni.com/ ) has nine rooms, some with balconies and each styled after a famous artist: Rivera, O'Keeffe, Gauguin and others. Rates from $86 to $120 per night double, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: Eating may be a bigger pastime than art in San Miguel. Choices are numerous, including German, Irish, French and Thai cuisines, and are frequently accompanied by jazz, mariachi, salsa and flamenco entertainment.

For a no-frills Mexican meal, shout Ole Ole (66 Loreto), family-run, cheap and fabulous. Bullfighting posters, old photographs and memorabilia abound, including mounted heads of some of the great fighters (bulls, not matadors). A dinner of chicken and beef fajitas, guacamole, beers and mango mousse runs less than $30 for two.

At the other end of the dining spectrum is Azafran (97 Hernandez Macias), with elegant food and lavish presentation. Highlights include black bean cakes in mango sauce and filets in smoked chili sauce with grilled baby tender cactus or in cognac sauce with couscous. Entrees run $11 to $14, pastas $8, soup and salads $5 to $8.

WHAT TO DO: First, get a copy of Atencion (75 cents), the weekly guide, mostly in English, to everything that's going on. Second, know you can't do it all. In a single week, we attended house tours, an artist studio tour, art openings, concerts, poetry readings, lectures, dance lessons, a crime-writing workshop, yoga classes, piano and guitar recitals, an Aztec dance performance, bullfight videos, a full-moon bonfire at the botanical garden and a day trip to see monarch butterflies.

Classes abound. Here are three options:

· Instituto Allende (22 Ancha de San Antonio, 011-52-415-152-0929, http://www.instituto-allende.edu.mx/ ) offers short-term classes in art and language, including stained glass, jewelry making, collage, multimedia sculpture, photography, weaving, fiber art, drawing and pastels. Most classes cost $270 for four weeks; some are $270 for two weeks.

· Classes Unlimited (011-52-415-152-2483, 46 Reloj, http://www.classesunlimited.com/ ) is a clearinghouse for classes as varied as cooking, computers and belly dancing, for visitors and residents. Tuition ranges widely, from about $20 to $260.

· MexArt (011-52-415-152-0624, http://www.gomexart.com/ ) is a summer art camp, with one-week programs for adults in art, writing, movement and Spanish; and month-long programs for teenagers in art, dance and language. Students stay in casitas within the camp compound, and all participants study Spanish for two hours daily.

INFORMATION: Mexico Tourism Board (800-446-3942, http://www.visitmexico.com/ ). Portal San Miguel ( http://www.portalsanmiguel.com/ ) has maps and links to hotels, restaurants, artists, activities and more.

-- Susan Harb