Farmstyle Breads and Spreads
Wednesday, January 25, 2006; Page F05
When customers of Louise Swartzwalder's Takoma Kitchens visit her small retail storefront, they are literally in the kitchen, with only a few wire shelves of ribbon-tied goodies separating the shop from the bakery production.
Swartzwalder's main business is selling baked goods and prepared foods at five year-round farmers markets, including Takoma Park and Arlington, and at half a dozen other markets in the summer. But the retail space plays an important role, too. "Customers want to know where you bake," she says.
  Owner Louise Swartzwalder works while the bread cools. (By Sarah L. Voisin -- The Washington Post) |
The action slows down a bit this time of year, but the shelves remain full of Swartzwalder's "American homestyle" breads, the kind of wholesome soft loaves, good for sandwiches and toasting, that have been baked for generations on American farms. Varieties such as Alpine bread with spelt, sesame seeds and grains ($3 for a 1.5-pound loaf) and sunflower bread with both ground and whole sunflower seeds ($3 for a 1.5-pound loaf) reflect the rediscovery of whole grains. Holmes County ($2.50 for a one-pound loaf) is a firm, flavorful white bread based on traditions of Ohio Amish country, where Swartzwalder grew up. Rounds of rosemary bread ($3 for a 1.5-pound loaf) and sourdough ($2.75 for a 1.5-pound loaf) satisfy customers looking for crustier, European-style breads. The products use no additives or preservatives.
For those with a sweet tooth, classic American fruit pies are another of Swartzwalder's specialties. Apple, blueberry, cherry ($11 each), and pecan ($12) are available year-round, while features such as winter's pear-cranberry pie ($12) rotate seasonally.
Prepared items such as winter squash, baked potato and wild mushroom soups (all $4 for 16 ounces) are natural complements to the breads. So are the popular cheese spreads -- sun-dried tomato, Boursin-style and basil walnut (all $3 for eight ounces). "The secret of the basil walnut spread is that you have to use fresh basil," Swartzwalder says. She gets it from a farmers market friend who grows it in greenhouses year-round.
Takoma Kitchens, 1812 East-West Hwy., Hyattsville; 301-422-0097. Open Tuesday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
-- Renee Brooks Catacalos
Freelance writer Renee Brooks Catacalos last wrote for food about Turkish halal butchers in Fairfax.
