Romancing Tulum

CHEAPEST THRILL: A $3 "limo" ride (a rickety tricycle cart driven by an elderly gentleman) at Coba in a pouring rainstorm.

BIGGEST SPLURGE: The "all-inclusive" ticket at Xel-Ha, a natural water park. It was nearly double the regular ticket price, but included snorkel gear, a locker and all food and beverages. While the lunch buffet was unexceptional, the coconut ice cream was the best I've ever had, and hey -- free margaritas! The park itself is fun: a natural lagoon you can snorkel in, and a variety of related activities. Plus, there's live music everywhere. Unlike American parks where they feel the need to spend thousands of dollars on fancy sound systems, in Mexico it's cheaper to hire three guys with a xylophone.

THING I COULD HAVE DONE WITHOUT: I went to Mexico and all I got was this lousy rash. Henna tattoos are supposed to fade, but I was left with a tattoo-shaped scar from the probably-not-so-sanitary application.

THING I WISH I'D BROUGHT WITH ME: Duct tape, to fix the bits that kept breaking on our rental car (headlight switch, driver's window knob, passenger's interior door handle . . .)

MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT: Loading up a shopping cart full of beer, only to be told you can't buy beer on election day.

BIGGEST CULTURE SHOCK: You can't buy beer on election day!

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