Where the Wild Things Aren't

Find Where Spring Breakers Don't Hog the Sand

Gold Rock Beach on Grand Bahama Island can make even the biggest tension ball let go for a few days.
Gold Rock Beach on Grand Bahama Island can make even the biggest tension ball let go for a few days. (Bahamas Ministry of Tourism)
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By Kim O'Donnel
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Tuesday, January 31, 2006; 3:40 PM

Even during the mildest of winters, the craving for renewal inevitably beckons. By the time March rolls around, everyone, it seems, is itching for the smell of green grass, the whoosh of wind, the sound of a creaking swing set -- anything that means spring is on its way.

Immediate gratification is often necessary to quench the thirst for warmer days, which is why many easy-to-reach beaches tend to be jammed up and overflowing with a rowdy, worked-up college contingency partying nonstop. Sigh. Is there any stretch of sand not spoken for during this critical cabin fever month? We say yes. Here's where we'd hedge our bets on beach vacancies, or at the very least, a gentler, kinder volume more conducive to rest and relaxation.

Out Islands, Bahamas

Scrap the noise and big resorts of Nassau and Grand Bahama and hop a puddle jumper for the dozens of "Out Islands" -- where the chances of finding a starfish are far greater than a wet t-shirt contest. Depending on your interests, from diving to wildlife, there's an Out Island to match, but, no matter where you pick (Exumas, Eleuthera, Abaco, Long Island, Andros, Cat, to name a few) all of them offer crystalline waters and ample opportunities to eat conch fritters.

Getting there: US Airways, United and Continental fly to several Out Islands; American, AirTran Spirit, JetBlue, Delta are among a handful of carriers flying to either Nassau or Freeport, where you can connect on a BahamasAir flight to your final destination.

Barbados

From someone who's been to this eastern-most Caribbean island nine times, I can say with confidence that there's plenty of beach to go round. Although Barbados has a substantial nightlife scene around St. Lawrence Gap, it's large enough to be out of dance-floor range and hear the pounding surf instead. Resorts are a-plenty, but so are apartments and cottages in more remote corners away from the traffic. For a meditative experience, drive to the east coast for some time along the rough shores of the Atlantic, to watch surfers take on the 'soup bowl' of Bathsheba and check out some REALLY big rocks.

Getting there: Nonstop flights from Washington are available on BWIA; US Airways offers service through Philadelphia; American, through Miami. Arrival is easy; get in a taxi and within an hour, you'll be on the beach. 

Uruguay

Our winter is Uruguay's summer, but that's not the only reason to go. Sandwiched between Argentina and Brazil this sliver of a South American country is getting its North American due as a beach destination. With a 300-mile-long coastline dotted with beaches, it's pretty safe to say there's plenty of room. I'm hankering to make my way towards Punta del Este, a chi-chi village considered the Rivera of South America, about a two-hour drive from capital city Montevideo. Carnivores, you'll be in heaven; top-shelf beef is available in many forms, with plenty of chimichurri sauce for dipping.

Getting there: Fly from Dulles on United to Buenos Aires, connect to Montevideo. American Airlines also flies to Montevideo from Miami. Note: It's a 12-hour flight, overnighting in both directions, but with a one-hour-only time difference, jet lag is but a dream. 

St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

Just like we recommended for the Bahamas, try a similar tact for the USVI. Fly to the big city -- in this case, St. Thomas -- and get out of dodge. You'll catch a ferry to the laid-back outpost of St. John, where eco-resorts and camp grounds are still very much a part of the island's fabric. It's hard to miss the Virgin Islands National Park, a U.S national park covering the majority of the island, with trails, beaches, coral reefs and wildlife (sea turtles, birds). When the sun goes down, the vibe remains low key, with neighborhood bars and local bands running the show. Chilling out is what people do here. Don't come if you want internet access, good cell phone reception and connection to the outside world.

Getting there: American, Continental, Delta, Spirit, United and US Airways all fly to St. Thomas from Washington. Ferries from Red Hook (15 minute-ride) and Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas (45 minute-ride) to St. John's Cruz Bay run frequently throughout the day.

Vieques and Culebra, Puerto Rico

A getaway from a getaway is what you'll get when you go to Vieques or Culebra, two small islands off the east coast of Puerto Rico.

Located just eight miles out to sea, Vieques has been known as Naval testing (i.e. bombing) ground, with little access to many of the island's nature preserves. That's all changed since 2003, when the Navy packed up. Many beaches, once under military control, are now open to the public. One of the must-dos (which I will do myself in coming weeks) is a kayak tour through Mosquito Bay, which is filled with millions of phosphorescent marine organisms that light up at night. Sounds like a glow-in-the-dark dream come true.

Guest houses, cottages and smaller hotels dominate the lodging offerings, but that soon will change, too. Later this year, Starwood Hotels will open the W Vieques -- Martineau Bay, a 156-room resort. Hurry!

Only seven miles long, Culebra is even more of a hamlet, and closer to the Virgin Islands than Puerto Rico; in fact, it is sometimes referred to as "The Spanish Virgin Islands. " Unspoiled beaches, underwater eye candy and kayaking is why you'd come here. Lodging is guesthouse and cottage oriented, with little bars as hubs of nightlife.

Getting there: American has nonstop service from Washington area to San Juan; connecting service is offered by Continental, Delta, United, US Airways. Daily flights to Vieques or Culebra are about 25 minutes, available through a handful of local carriers, including Vieques Airlink and Air Culebra. Ferry info: 800/981-2005



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