Meat Markets

What's the difference between buying meat at a specialty shop instead of the supermarket? Prime, price and people.

Butcher shops often sell the type of dry-aged, prime meat you get in high-end steakhouses. The meat is not only generously marbled, it's been aged by hanging for up to two weeks in a meat locker. Dry-aged beef lovers say this produces a richer, meatier flavor, darker color and slightly firmer texture. In contrast, most supermarket meat has been "wet-aged," meaning it's been Cryovaced in its own juices for a shorter period of time.

Prime beef from a butcher shop is also priced accordingly. A prime aged New York strip can cost up to $25 a pound (which is still less than you'd pay if you were eating it at places like Morton's or the Capital Grille). Prime rib-eye can run $15 to $20 a pound.

Butcher shops and specialty markets usually are owned or staffed by trained butchers, who can cut meat to order, explain the differences between cuts and give advice on the best way to cook it.

In addition to butcher shops, prime beef can be found at Balducci's, Dean & DeLuca and Wegmans and occasionally at Magruder's and Whole Foods Markets. Prime can be special-ordered at some Giant Food stores.

Independent butcher shops in the area include:

· The Organic Butcher , 6712 Old Dominion Rd., McLean, 703-790-8300. All certified organic meats and poultry; prime beef, aged and non-aged. Beef comes from Virginia farms, including Canon Hill in Harrisonburg and Maple Hill in Charlottesville. Owner Don Roden; butcher Nick Furlow.

· Wagshal's Market , 4845 Massachusetts Ave. NW, 202-363-0777. Father and son owners Bill and Aaron Fuchs are both trained butchers. Store specializes in dry-aged prime beef.

· Laurel Meat Market , 347 Main St., 301-725-5855. In business for 35 years. Owner Bill Miles. Offers dry- and wet-aged prime and choice beef.

· Springfield Butcher , 6816 Bland St., 703-245-0111. Opened nearly 30 years ago by Archie Priest, now owned by son Mike Priest. Prime and choice meats, all Angus.

· Home Farm , 1 Washington St., Middleburg. 540-687-8882. Open since December 2004. Prime tenderloin, strip and rib-eye steaks, plus dry-aged organic beef. Head butcher Teresa Reynolds.

-- Candy Sagon