By Stephanie Witt Sedgwick
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, February 15, 2006
I love Brussels sprouts.
I know that not everyone shares my enthusiasm for the mini-cabbages -- okay, most people don't -- so I took it as a personal challenge to come up with recipes that would make sprouts lovable.
The first thing I didn't do was boil them. That's how Brussels sprouts are traditionally prepared, and it's no wonder that so many people dislike them. Boiling the sprouts into soggy submission merely accentuates their cabbage flavor -- not to mention odor -- and turns their texture to mush.
Instead, I "reinvented" Brussels sprouts by cooking them four ways to bring out their subtle flavor and tender quality. Roasted, their cabbage-like flavor recedes. Tossed with oil and baked, their cut edges brown deliciously. Shredded and stir-fried with whatever flavors you like, they are almost unrecognizably sweet. Braised on the stovetop, they take on a melting quality.
What's not to love?
When buying Brussels sprouts, look for ones with an attractive green color indicating freshness. Avoid any that are yellowing or look wrinkled. Try to pick sprouts of similar size for even cooking.
Cleaning and cutting are a breeze. Trim the stem end and remove the outer leaves. Halve or quarter larger sprouts to reduce the cooking time. Though Brussels sprouts can be stored for several days in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator, try to use them within three days so they don't develop a strong cabbage flavor.
Experiment with these four cooking methods and see how lovable these sprouts can be.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick writes a monthly Entertaining feature for the Wine Plus page.
You Wouldn't Know It's a Sprout
(Warm Orange-Ginger Brussels Sprout Slaw)
6 servings
A friend who thought she didn't like Brussels sprouts was won over by a suggestion from Park Hyatt executive chef Brian McBride. He shredded the sprouts as you would a cabbage for slaw and then sautéed them with ginger and orange. She never made it for me, but the technique and combination of ingredients stayed on my to-do list.
When I got around to making my own version, I was wowed. It's like a slaw but better. The Brussels sprouts give it a more delicate quality. The orange and ginger flavors really pop, and there's not a hint of the old-fashioned, cooked-to-death sprouts in this dish.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed, stems trimmed, either shredded in a food processor or cut in half and thinly sliced
1-inch piece ginger root, peeled and finely grated
Grated zest and juice of 1 orange
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons water (optional)
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the shredded sprouts and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the ginger, orange zest and juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking, stirring, until the sprouts are just cooked, 4 to 5 minutes. If the pan gets dry, add a few tablespoons of water. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 77 calories, 3 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 66 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Sprouts in a New Light
(Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Garlic)
6 servings
This idea was suggested by Julie Leopold, a nutrition program manager for Inova Health Source of Northern Virginia. Overcooked Brussels sprouts have given the vegetable a bad rap. Leopold is a fan of roasting sprouts, a method she said minimizes the cabbage flavor so many people dislike. She's absolutely right. Not only is the cabbage flavor almost nonexistent, but this dish is fast and easy to prepare.
1 to 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and stems trimmed, each cut in half
8 to 10 small to medium cloves garlic
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the Brussels sprouts, garlic, oil and salt and pepper to taste, tossing to make sure the sprouts are evenly coated. Transfer to a roasting pan large enough to hold the sprouts in one layer.
Roast for about 30 minutes, stirring at the 10- and 20-minute marks. The sprouts are ready when they have started to brown and are tender enough to be pierced with a fork. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 78 calories, 3 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 66 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Sprouts to Love
(Braised Brussels Sprouts)
6 servings
This is my hands-down favorite way to cook them. This method gives Brussels sprouts an almost-melting quality. Bacon imparts a smoky flavor here, but it's not essential; the bacon may be replaced with a tablespoon or two of oil.
1/4 pound bacon, diced
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 to 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and stems trimmed, each cut in half
1/2 cup chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
Pinch sugar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a pan large enough to eventually hold all of the Brussels sprouts, cook the bacon over medium heat until the bacon releases its fat, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring every minute or so, until it is translucent, about 3 minutes.
Add the sprouts, stock or broth, sugar and salt and pepper to taste, stirring to combine. Increase the heat to high and bring the broth to a boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low and cover the pan. Allow the sprouts to cook slowly until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to high and bring the stock or broth back to a boil. Cook until the liquid has almost evaporated, about 4 minutes. Serve immediately, or cover and keep warm until ready.
Per serving: 127 calories, 5 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, 13 mg cholesterol, 3 g saturated fat, 300 mg sodium (229 mg if using low-sodium broth), 3 g dietary fiber
For the Sprout Lover
(Steamed Brussels Sprouts With Sherry Vinaigrette)
6 servings
Steamed whole Brussels sprouts are not for the sprout-phobic. This dish can be completely prepared well before the meal. It is ideal at room temperature.
In the winter I use dried herbs instead of fresh in my dressings for economy and ease. But if you have fresh on hand, use 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons.
1 to 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and stems trimmed
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
Pinch sugar
1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons dried herbs such as chives, dill or parsley
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 tablespoons olive oil
Bring water to boil in a pot fitted for a steamer. Add sprouts to the steamer and steam until just tender. (This should take about 10 minutes, but will vary depending on the size of the sprouts.)
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the mustard, vinegar, sugar, herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to whisk, adding 6 tablespoons of the olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Taste and adjust the seasonings. If the dressing is too vinegary, add oil as desired.
Add the steamed sprouts and toss with the dressing. Allow the flavors to meld for at least 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Per serving (with 1 tablespoon of dressing): 153 calories, 3 g protein, 7 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 g saturated fat, 86 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Recipes tested by Stephanie Witt Sedgwick; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
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