DETAILS Puerto Rico's Interior

Hacienda Gripinas, a former coffee plantation in the middle of the island, was converted into an inn. (By Jim Sebastian)

GETTING AROUND : Moving around the interior definitely requires a car, which isn't too expensive in Puerto Rico. Orbitz shows national chain rentals in March staring at $23 a day. Driving is on the right, and most of the roads are of familiar U.S. quality, although the mountain roads can be nervous-making for those afraid of heights.

WHERE TO STAY: With an abundance of balconies and patios all pointed the right way, Casa Cubuy Ecolodge (Highway 191 in Barrio Cubuy, about an hour and 15 minutes from the airport, 787-874-6221, http://www.casacubuy.com/ ) offers a delightful highland perch over the 28,000-acre Caribbean National Forest (more popularly known as El Yunque). Hike the forest, cool off in the waterfall pool and toast the sunset from the patio bar. Rooms with private balconies start at $100 a night, including breakfast. Dinner is available when at least seven guests sign up. Hacienda Gripinas (787-828-1717, http://www.haciendagripinas.com/ ) is a former coffee plantation in the mountainous middle of the island, now converted into one of the island's traditional country inns, or paradores . Rooms in the green-and-white main house, many overlooking the garden pool, start at $92.95, which includes breakfast, a welcome cocktail and dinner.

WHERE TO EAT: Puerto Rico isn't a cheap place to eat, but in the intererior I found hearty local food at no-name roadside restaurants, usually marked by a collection of cars and a banner provided by a beer or soda company. In addition to the fish of the day, try the mofongo , a mash of fried plantains, bacon and conch, and tostones , a kind of plantain croquette.

WHAT TO DO:

· La Ruta Panoramica is a scenic route for view lovers and Grand Prix daydreamers. Made up from more than 40 local roads, the Panoramic Route threads through the dramatic and steep terrain of the island's central mountain range. The route, which starts in the east at Highway 182 at Yabucoa, is mostly well marked by distinctive road signs, but you'll need a good map.

· You don't have to be a lover of small, wet, dark places to love Rio Camuy Cave Park . The caverns there are truly enormous wet, dark places and easily visited to boot. Take a tourist tram to the mouth of the main public cavern, Cueva Clara, then walk on smooth, lighted paths through a subterranean palace (Highway 129, 787-898-3100; $10).

· Arecibo Observatory , the world's largest single-dish radio telescope, is within a converted mountain valley a few miles from Camuy Cave Park. The visitors center is excellent, with slick videos and lots of interactive gizmos. But the coolest thing is just to peer down into the 20-acre dish (787-878- 2612, http://www.naic.edu/ ; $4)

-- Steve Hendrix