DETAILS Puerto Rico's Islands

GETTING THERE: The easiest and quickest way to reach Vieques or Culebra is to fly from San Juan. Vieques Air Link (888-901-9247, http://www.viequesairlink.com/ ), for example, offers daily flights from San Juan's international airport to Vieques or Culebra for $167 round trip; flight time is about a half-hour. The airline also flies from San Juan-Isla Grande Airport, a smaller facility in Old San Juan, to Vieques ($92) and Culebra ($98). Isla Nena Air Service (877-812- 5144) and Air Flamenco (787-724-1818, http://www.airflamenco.net/ ) also fly between the smaller islands. Isla Nena, for example, flies on demand for $28 one way.

The most adventurous way to travel is via ferry. A high-speed ferry runs from Old San Juan to both islands. Trip time is 1 hour 45 minutes to Culebra, continuing on to Vieques (a half-hour more). The ferry runs once a day Thursdays through Sundays; cost is $68 round trip for San Juan-Culebra, $78 round trip for San Juan-Vieques and $33 round trip for Vieques-Culebra. Info: Island High Speed Ferry, 877-899-3993, http://www.islaculebra.com/puerto-rico/san-juan-high-speed-ferry.htm . For a local joy ride, catch the ferry from Fajardo, about 30 miles from San Juan. (Note: Getting to Fajardo can be hassle; you have to take an expensive cab ($75), rent a car or catch a public bus.) Cost is $2.25 one way to Culebra, $2 to Vieques. Daily departures. Info: Port Authority Marine Transportation, 787-741- 4761.

WHERE TO STAY: There aren't too many choices on Culebra, but Mamacita's (787-742-0090, http://www.mamacitaspr.com/ ) has everything you need: Carib-bright rooms, a restaurant and hopping bar, and a "downtown" location near the ferry dock. Rooms go for $102.

On Vieques, Bravo! Beach Hotel (787-741-1128, http://www.bravobeachhotel.com/ ) offers a slice of South Beach, but without the 'tude. The Isabel Segunda-area boutique property is Architectural Digest elegant, with an oceanfront location, a wine tasting room, a tapas restaurant and two pools (one an infinity, the other with a bar and piped-in mood music or deejay). Rooms from $175, including breakfast.

Near Esperanza, the Inn on the Blue Horizon (787-741-3318, http://www.innonthebluehorizon.com/ ; rooms from $125) is a secluded haven with a pool, tennis courts and gourmet restaurant. For budget travelers, Bananas Guesthouse (787-741-8700, http://www.bananasguesthouse.com/ ; from $65) in Esperanza is low-key yet colorful (in more ways than one).

WHERE TO EAT: On Culebra, Mamacita's offers waterside dining and heaping plates of Caribbean and Puerto Rican specialties. Entrees average $8 to $15. For similar fare and views, try the Dinghy Dock (787-742-0233), which serves four meals a day (the fourth is liquid); dinner dishes from $13 to $28.

On Vieques, Bravo! recently opened bbh , which prepares tapas (soba noodle salad, garlic root mash, ahi tuna, etc.) for $8 to $14; the hotel also serves sandwiches and salads poolside at lunch. For upscale dining, UVA (787-741-2050) in Isabel Segunda cooks Spanish-Caribbean fusion; entrees in the $29-$50 range. Swing by El Resuelve on the way to the beach for pastilillos (filled turnovers), alcapurrias (fritters) or garlic shrimp. On weekends, enjoy $2 chicken, fish or pork pinchos (kebabs) from roadside stands.

WHAT TO DO: In Culebra, rent a bike and start cycling around (and around) the island. Dick and Cathy (787-742-0062) rent mountain bikes for $15 a day. The top-ranked strand is Flamenco Beach , where you can monkey around abandoned Navy tanks and snorkel; Zoni and Malena beaches are also delightful. You can also explore the nearby cay of Calubrita , which has a lighthouse and more beaches; ask your hotel for info on boat hires. If you are mosquito-repellent, hike around the North Shore. Happy hour starts, well, does it ever stop? Sidle up to Dinghy Dock, Mamacita's and El Batey, with dancing after-hours.

Vieques is bigger than you think. You might want to rent a car, scooter or bike in town to go exploring, especially for the National Wildlife Refuge (the largest in Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands), which the Navy once controlled. Beach-hop along the southern coast, hitting Navio, Red and Blue beaches. Fish or stroll down the mile-long Mosquito Pier . Check out the high views and artifacts at Museum Fort Count Mirasol (787-741-1717; $2), near Isabel II. When the night and sea are clear, sign up for a tour of Bioluminescent Bay , which glows from dinoflagellates. Blue Caribe Kayaks (787-741-2522) in Esperanza offers two-hour kayak tours of the bay for $30.

INFORMATION: Enchanted Isle's Web site ( http://www.enchanted-isle.com/ ) is full of information on both islands.

-- Andrea Sachs