DETAILS Puerto Rico's West Coast

GETTING THERE: Rincon, a surfer's hideaway about a third of the way down the west coast, is a good place to base yourself for a surf-and-sun trip. The drive from San Juan (Highway 22 to Highway 2, then follow the signs) takes about 2 1/2 hours; a two-day weekend car rental from Dollar costs about $80, including taxes and fees.

Both Aguadilla and Mayaguez, the region's two cities, have airports; connecting flights from Washington start at about $430. Cape Air offers service between San Juan and Mayaguez starts at about $170 round trip.

WHERE TO STAY: The Rincon Beach Resort (866-589-0009, http://www.rinconbeach.com/ ), just south of town on winding Road 115, has a sprawling pool and rooms with balconies, fridges and ceiling fans. Low-season doubles start at $185, though we booked it for $124 on Expedia. Nearby, the luxe Horned Dorset Primavera (800-633-1857, http://www.horneddorset.com/ ) is for the monied set; its 39 rooms and villas include balconies, marble bathrooms and four-poster beds. Rates from $480. For cheaper, more laid-back accommodations, consider Rincon's hilltop Lazy Parrot (800-294-1752, http://www.lazyparrot.com/ ; from $110), with basic rooms and killer views.

South of the area, there are a number of lodging choices in the pretty tourist town of Boqueron; the Cofresi Beach Hotel (787-254-3000, http://www.cofresibeach.com/ ; from $129), for example, is a few minutes from the surf and features apartments with kitchens. Get wayyyy off the beaten path at the comfy, clean Bahia Salinas Beach Hotel (787-254-1212, http://www.bahiasalinas.com/ ; from $103), near the southwest tip of the island and accessible by dirt road; call for directions. La Playuela, the nearest beach (see below), and its lighthouse are worth it, but note that the hotel is undergoing renovation so expect some hardhats.

WHERE TO EAT: Mingle with Rincon's surfing set at Smilin' Joe's at the Lazy Parrot (787-823-5654), with such surprisingly sophisticated grub as coconut curry mahi-mahi and pumpkin ravioli. Dinner for two with appetizers and drinks runs about $60. If you must have linen napkins and extra forks, the posh Primavera at the Horned Dorset will set you back about $140 for two, with wine. Just want a quick bite? Catch the sunset, sip something with mucho tequila and have an empanadilla or two (about $2 each) at Kaplash (Road 115 in Rincon, 787-826- 4582).

For fresh seafood (you can watch it caught in some spots) under $30 for two, check out the town of Joyuda and its seemingly endless string of restaurants abutting the beach. And if you just want picnic fixin's for beach breaks and star-gazing, stop into one of numerous Pueblo supermarkets along the main roads; prices are similar to those in the Washington area.

WHAT TO DO: Grab a towel and hit the beach anywhere on the coast -- if you can find a parking place, you're good to go. A few choices: La Playuela, near the Bahia Salinas Beach Hotel, has gentle waves and a lovely view of the Cabo Rojo lighthouse; El Combate, south of Boqueron, is the island's longest beach (about three miles); and Crashboat, in Aguadilla, attracts both surfers and strong swimmers (the water is rougher than it looks). Many beaches offer free, dirt-lot parking and locals peddling food and drinks.

If you want to join in on the fun in Rincon, learn to surf at the Rincon Surf School (787-823- 0610, http://www.rinconsurfschool.com/ ); programs range from one to five days and start at $89 per person. Elsewhere around town, check out the lighthouse, browse the area's surf shops and go whale-watching in the winter.

For an excellent guide to fishing charters, hotels, restaurants and other attractions, go to the Tourism Association of Rincon's Web site at http://www.rincon.org/ .

-- John Deiner