The Brunch Bunch

At the glamorous Mandarin Oriental Hotel (1330 Maryland Ave. SW; 202-787-6868), brunch at the modern fusion Cafe MoZU offers a three-course set menu that changes monthly. First is a chef's selection of four tastings (currently an Asian crab cake, curried butternut squash bisque, smoked haddock and salmon, and duck terrine); a choice of two of about a half-dozen entrees, some traditional, some Asian; and a trio of desserts, plus assorted rolls and pastries ($42).

Rabieng 's Thai dim sum brunch has been described as Thai tapas (5892 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads; 703-671-4222), but that term might better be applied to its more formal sibling, Duangrat's, which mixes in modern-Asian recipes (5878 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads; 703-820-5775).

For those who think all Mexican fare has "Tex" as a prefix, the brunch menu at the more classically minded Oyamel -- chayote omelets, cinnamon-scented fried plantains -- may come as a pleasant surprise (2250-B Crystal Dr., Crystal City; 703-413-2288). The brunch at Rosa Mexicano (575 Seventh St. NW; 202-783-5522) may be a little less cutting edge, but it has a kids' menu that might be an advantage for some.

More than two dozen innovative Latin and Caribbean dim sum are on the brunch menu at Cafe Atlantico (405 Eighth St. NW; 202-393-0812) and can be ordered a la carte or for the entire table in a vegetarian tasting menu or a full tasting menu.

Zaytinya 's regular list of eastern Mediterranean mezze is long enough, but the brunch menu adds even more options (701 Ninth St. NW; 202-638-0800). Mezze begat tapas, of course, and brunch at Jaleo (locations in Penn Quarter, Crystal City and Bethesda) also adds new options to the array.

French fare is easy to come by, but Belgian is less common, especially first thing in the morning. Belga Cafe (514 Eighth St. SE; 202-544-0100) serves not only waffles but the classic mussels -- like oysters, a great hangover remedy -- and waterzooi , the Belgian mama's version of chicken soup.

And even before the disastrous Gulf Coast hurricanes of 2005, New Orleans-style brunch was a favorite in these parts. At least two famous brunch dishes, oysters Rockefeller and bananas Foster, were created in the Crescent City, the former at Antoine's and the latter at Brennan's. Among the most popular area brunch menus are those at Louisiana Express (4921 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-6945) and its offshoot, the French Quarter Cafe (19847 Century Blvd. in Germantown Town Center; 301-515-7693); New Orleans Bistro (4907 Cordell Ave., Bethesda; 301-986-8833); 219 (219 King St., Alexandria; 703-549-1141); and Bardia's New Orleans Cafe (2412 18th St. NW; 202-234-0420).

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN SANCTUARIES

Happily for non-carnivores, the variety and quality of vegetarian and vegan brunches in the area have vastly improved since the penitential days of brown rice and lentils. Soul Vegetarian Restaurant near Howard University (2606 Georgia Ave. NW; 202-328-7685) serves vegan soul food that has made it a neighborhood favorite, and it has a sibling establishment across the Maryland border, Soul Vegetarian Gourmet (9185 Central Ave., Largo; 301-324-6900).

The organic vegetarian Berwyn Cafe is almost an old-timer in the field (5010 Berwyn Rd., College Park; 301-345-9898). Despite being better known as a nightclub, Asylum (2471 18th St. NW; 202-319-9353) is veggie-friendly and offers a vegan brunch menu, plus equal-opportunity two-for-one bloody marys and free pool all day. Vegetate (1414 Ninth St. NW; 202-232-4585) aims to become the city's first modern-American vegan cafe.

If Sunday is your day to indulge -- all things in moderation, even diets -- the vegan Sticky Fingers Bakery lays out a full assortment of cakes, tarts, cookies, pies and, naturally, sticky buns, and coffee to amp up the sugar buzz (1904 18th St. NW; 202-299-9700).

But what might be the most intriguing specialties are offered at the full-service vegan/vegetarian Great Sage in Clarksville (5809 Clarksville Square Dr., Clarksville; 443-535-9400): organic mimosas, bloody marys and even martinis. Here's to your health!

THEY GOT THE LOOK

It may not be better to look good than to cook good, so to speak, but a nice view adds a lot to a meal. One of Washington's most extravagant vistas, even in bad weather, is Sequoia 's sweeping view of the Potomac River from the Kennedy Center up toward the Georgetown boathouses (Washington Harbour; 202-944-4200). From atop the Kennedy Center itself, the Roof Terrace restaurant has an equally panoramic view, plus an insider's glimpse of the kitchen, where guests go to load up their plates ($34; 202-416-8555). The Clyde's group, whose Georgetown flagship has been a brunch magnate for more than 30 years, has unveiled its grand Victorian Clyde's of Gallery Place (707 Seventh St. NW; 202-349-3700), a complex of three distinctly styled bars, five dining rooms, including a conservatory and an art deco-style terrace, and several private areas.

For sheer fantasy, the various boudoirs of Mie N Yu would be hard to top (3125 M St. NW; 202-333-6122). The stone patio of Old Angler's Inn in Potomac is a favorite reward for canal walkers in warm weather (10801 MacArthur Blvd.; 301-299-9097). At the other end of town, the view from the former Potowmack Landing, being renovated as Indigo Landing and scheduled to open in mid-April, is especially good for kids because flights out of Reagan National Airport take off just across the water (1 Marina Dr., Alexandria). The new name points to its Low Country menu; South Carolina was once known as the Indigo State.

Museums offer their own slightly different sort of "look": art exhibits. Despite its name, the Garden Cafe in the National Gallery of Art's West Building is really an indoor space, though a nice one; and during the run of the "Cezanne in Provence" show, through May 7, its buffet is devoted to Provencal-style dishes (noon-4; 202-737-4215). Meanwhile, in the East Building, the Terrace Cafe on the mezzanine level will be open for Sunday brunch during the "Dada" show there through May 14, with a small-plate menu of European cafe-style fare (11-3; 202-737-4215).

DESIGNATED DINERS

The association of brunch with champagne and/or bloody marys is indelible, and few establishments would dare leave them off the menu (which is why you find "Mexican bloody marys" and shrimp-garnished bloody marys and Old Bay and bacon marys on various menus). But some brunches are more liquid than others.

At the pretty, conservatory-like Colonnade in the Fairmont Hotel (2401 M St. NW; 202-457-5000), the brunch buffet is unusually wide-ranging and attractive, and though it may seem a little pricey at $60, the price includes all-you-can-drink Taittinger champagne and romantic piano music (not to mention a chocolate fondue fountain).

Jazz brunch at Seasons restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel is one of Washington's most famous, a staple of tour books, and also includes all-you-can-drink, albeit sparkling wine rather than champagne, for $64 (2800 Pennsylvania Ave., NW; 202-944-2000). The Old World-elegant Willard Room at the Willard InterContinental Hotel (14th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue NW; 202-638-9100) puts its money into all-American high-end surf and turf and all-you-can-drink American sparkling wine for $75; it also has a rolling tableside bloody mary cart. The Raj-elegant Bombay Club (815 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-659-3727) includes unlimited sparkling wine with its $20 buffet.

At U-topia (1418 U St. NW; 202-483-7669), a glass of sparkling wine, a mimosa or a bloody mary during the jazz brunch will set you back only a buck. At the Sign of the Whale (1825 M St. NW; 202-785-1110), the make-your-own bloody mary bar is all-you-can-drink for $9.95 -- more than most of the entrees.

Eve Zibart doesn't do brunch, but she does do Taittinger, all she can drink.