DETAILS

Canyoneering in the Southwest

GETTING THERE: The closest major airport if you are starting at Utah's Zion National Park is in Las Vegas, a 2 1/2 -hour drive away. Of the many airlines serving Vegas from the Washington area, America West currently has the best nonstop fare in early April, $245 from Dulles or $285 from BWI. Connecting service on Northwest starts at $210 on from BWI, $230 from Dulles or Reagan National, or $225 from BWI or $245 from Reagan on Frontier.

GETTING AROUND: A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended for some roads, but it's not absolutely necessary. Dirt roads are likely to be impassable when wet, even with a 4WD.

WHEN TO GO: Anytime, but be prepared for very cold water in the winter. The best months are probably April and October. The danger of flash floods is greatest in July and August. Average high temperatures in the summer at the lower elevations exceed 100 degrees. Lows in the winter at higher elevations, such as at Bryce Canyon National Park, will be in the teens or single digits.

WHERE TO STAY:

· Zion National Park: A number of motels are just outside the park in Springdale, and shuttles will carry you back and forth. But the place to stay, if you can book months in advance, is at the historic Zion Lodge (888-297-2757, http://www.zionlodge.com/ ), deep inside the park. Rooms for two run $132 for a motel room and $142 for a cabin, year-round. From April through October, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is accessible by shuttle bus only. Route 9, which traverses the park from east to west, is open year-round to private vehicles.

· Bryce Canyon National Park: The historic Bryce Canyon Lodge (888-297-2757, http://www.brycecanyonlodge.com/ ), open April through October, has motel rooms for $125 and cabins for $130. The cabins are charming but rustic; I found a mouse in my suitcase one night. If you can't get into the lodge, or when it's closed for the season, stay just outside the park at Ruby's Inn (1000 S. Hwy. 63, Bryce, 866-866-6616, http://www.rubysinn.com/ ), where a room for two runs $52 to $176 a night depending on size and season.

· Kanab, Utah: Aiken's Lodge (79 W. Center, 800-790-0380, http://aikenslodge.com/ ) is your basic motel, but it's clean, comfortable and run by nice folks; $40 to $65, depending on season.

· Page, Ariz.: The Best Western Arizona Inn (716 Rimview Dr., 800-780-7234, http://www.bestwestern.com/ ) has rooms from $40 to $104 per night, depending on season and room, including a good continental breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: In Zion, the Red Rock Grill (435-772-7760) at Zion Lodge has an ample menu and good food. Specialties include local trout and slow-cooked prime rib. Dinners run $18 to $25 with tip and beverage. In Bryce, the dining room at the Big Canyon Lodge (435-834-5361) has similar food and prices. Dinner reservations are a must at both.

In Kanab, Nedra's Too (310 S. 100 E., 435- 644-2030) advertises "southwest-style home cooking," but it's basically Mexican. This friendly and popular place has an extensive menu and good but standard fare. $10 to $15 for dinner.

In Page, Ken's Old West (718 Vista Dr., 928-645-5160) is your basic Western steakhouse. Service was slow and indifferent, but the food was excellent. Dinner about $20.

CANYON TOURS: For Canyon X, Antelope Canyon and other places in the Navajo Nation, call Overland Canyon Tours (928-608-4072, http://www.overlandcanyontours.com/ ) and ask for Jackson Bridges. It's the only way you can get to Canyon X, where a half-day photographer's tour with box lunch is $150. A half-day tour, without lunch, of Canyon X and Antelope Canyon is $130.

GEAR: If it weren't for the water, canyoneering would be like any other hiking. Footwear is key. Some people recommend wearing your favorite sturdy hiking boots, saying you need the ankle support to avoid sprains on those slippery rocks. Others say an old pair of sneakers with heavy socks -- to cushion your feet against the grit that will get in -- will work just fine in warm weather. I used, and recommend, the "river shoes" or "water shoes" made for aquatic sports. They have special treads designed to limit slipping on wet surfaces. Be sure to get ones closed at the ends to protect your toes. Inside the shoes, use waterproof neoprene socks -- the kind that have a Velcro closure or elastic seal around the calf -- over ordinary polypropylene liner socks.

In summer, shorts are fine. Other seasons, use Gore-Tex dry pants for shallow water and a dry suit for deeper water. A walking stick is a must. You can rent gear at Zion Adventure Co. in Springdale (see below).

INFORMATION: Zion National Park, 435-772-3256, http://www.nps.gov/zion . Bryce Canyon National Park, 435-834-5322, http://www.nps.gov/brca . Zion Adventure Co. (Lion and Zion Park boulevards, 435-772-0990, http://www.zionadventures.com/ ) is a good source for friendly, free advice.

-- Gary H. Anthes