DETAILS

Sarajevo

GETTING THERE: Sarajevo is not a hub, but several carriers (Alitalia, United, Lufthansa and Austrian airlines) fly there from Dulles with a connection in Europe; late-April fares start at about $1,000 on Alitalia from Dulles via Milan. Flying from Europe, the choices are more numerous. Lufthansa flies nonstop from Munich to Sarajevo International Airport for $214 round trip, with restrictions.

Another more economical option is to take a bus from a European hub, including Vienna, Amsterdam, the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana, Berlin and Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Bus schedules can be found and online reservations can be made through Sarajevo-based Centrotrans ( http://www.centrotrans.com,/ 011-387- 33-46-4045).

WHEN TO GO: There are festivals every season and each time of the year has its advantages, but the weather is best from May to October. To guarantee accommodations, spring and fall are the best bets.

GETTING AROUND: in Sarajevo, traveling is easiest by foot, but the city has tram and bus service. A ride on either costs about $1.06. You can also rent a car. Sarajevo's tourism office in Old Town

is helpful with everything from weather conditions and festivals to transportation and accommodations.

Green Visions (011-387- 33-717-290, http://www.greenvisions.ba/ ) is a one-stop shop for tours, equipment, adventure outings outside of Sarajevo and accommodations in town. At Sarajevo Discovery (011-387-61-190-591, http://www.sarajevo-discovery.com/ ), guides can help with every detail of your visit.

Sarajevo bus tours , which include the Tunnel Museum and panoramas of the city, leave every day at 11 a.m. from Hostel Ljubicica (65 Mula Mustafe Baseskije 65, 011-387-33-535829, http://www.hostelljubicica.net/ ), just opposite Pigeon Square. The 2 1/2 -hour tour costs about $15; it's best to reserve a spot at least one hour before the bus leaves.

WHERE TO STAY: There is plenty of good, inexpensive lodging in private accommodations and hotels. There are also a few opportunities to splurge.

Bascarsija Pansion (41 Veliki Curciluk, 011-387-33-232185) has 50 beds and good rooms that run $25 for a single, $62 for a double. Also in the city center, Villa Orient (6 Oprkanj, 011-387-33-232702, http://hotel-villa-orient.com/ ) is a luxurious alternative. Equipped with a fitness room and Internet capabilities, the hotel charges $124 double.The 140-room Hotel Saraj (5 Nevjestina, 011-387-33-233500, http://www.hotelsaraj.com/ ), perched above town, is equipped with a health and beauty center. Doubles are $100, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: Sarajevo's Old Town is an open-air smorgasbord of eateries especially adept at grilling meat. Go to Cevabdzinica Hodzic (34 Bravadziluk, 011-387-33-532866) for the Bosnian classic cevapi . Ten sausages, onions, pita bread and a beer cost about $5. Across the Miljacka from Bascarsija, Inat Kuca (1 Veliki Alifakovac, 011-387-33-447867) is a great local joint with views overlooking the river. A sampler that comes with stuffed peppers, stuffed onions and veal kebabs is $6.20. Restaurant Club Jez (14 Zelenih Beretki, 011-387-33-650312) is a cozy favorite near the tourism office. Try the trout with garlic sauce and the lamb with plums, apples and raisins. A meal with wine is about $37.

WHERE TO HANG OUT: There are plenty of places to relax with a mug of beer or a glass of wine. Pivnica HS (15 Franjevacka, 011-387-33-239740), the brewery for Sarajevsko pivo, is a cornerstone for beer lovers. The City Pub (Despiceva bb, 011-387-33-299916) in the Old Town is a hipster spot and a great place to mingle with chic Bosnians.

INFORMATION: Tourism Association of Sarajevo Canton , http://www.sarajevo-tourism.com/ .

-- Alex Crevar