DETAILS

Tulsa

GETTING THERE: There are no nonstop flights from the Washington area to Tulsa. For spring travel, United and Delta offer unrestricted round-trip fares from Reagan National for $209, with a change of planes in Chicago or Cincinnati. Fares on US Airways and Northwest are a tad higher.

WHERE TO STAY: The Ambassador Hotel (1324 S. Main St., 888-408-8282, http://www.hotelambassador-tulsa.com/ ) is a small boutique property with lots of panache and a fine-dining restaurant, the Chalkboard, on site. For those interested in art deco, the location, a few blocks from downtown, is excellent. On weekends, double rooms start at $149 a night.

The Crowne Plaza (100 E. Second St., 800-227-6963, http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/ ), also downtown, is slightly tired but friendly. Doubles start at $110 a night.

Budget travelers should try the Holiday Inn (5000 E. Skelly Dr., 800-465-4329, http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/ ). The setting next to a major highway is not particularly scenic and you'll need a car to get around, but there's a pool, a health club and helpful staff. Doubles start at $64 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: White River Fish Market (1708 N. Sheridan, 918-835-1910) serves the gamut of seafood, from scallops to orange roughy. Fish platters, with a couple of sides, average $10.95. Ciao, Baby! (3308 S. Peoria, 918-293-9333), with stylish decor and finely prepared Italian food, is one of our top choices for a fun evening out. The Diavolo di Mare (a seafood pasta dish), calamari and caramelized onion soup are excellent. Entrees average around $15; dinner for two, with drinks, runs about $55. The hot dogs at Coney Island (123 W. Fourth St., 918-587-2821), which come with plenty of fixin's, are so good people will drive for miles for lunch. A platter of three dogs, chips and drinks runs around $8 for two.

WHAT TO DO: A day at the Gilcrease Museum (1400 N. Gilcrease Museum Rd., 888-655-2278, http://www.gilcrease.org/ ), known for its American West and Native American art collections, is worth the trip to Tulsa. Admission is free but a donation of $3 for adults and $5 per family is requested.

Young, funky locals pack into Cain's Ballroom (423 N. Main St., 918-584-2306, http://www.cainsballroom.com/ ), which features concerts including regular performances by national rock groups. Check its Web site or call for upcoming acts and ticket prices.

Visitors curious about the rich history of black Tulsa should drop by the Greenwood Cultural Center (322 N. Greenwood Ave., 918-596-1020, http://www.greenwoodculturalcenter.com/ ). There is an informative display inside about the neighborhood's history and a monument outside to victims of the 1921 race riots.

INFORMATION: Oklahoma Tourism & Recreation Dept. , 800-652-6552, http://www.travelok.com/

-- Gary Lee