DETAILS

Bolzano (Bozen), Italy

GETTING THERE: Bolzano is about 90 miles north of Verona and 70 miles south of Innsbruck, Austria. It is served by Alitalia; airfares from Washington start at $776 in late April for a flight originating at Reagan National on America West with connections in New York and Rome. Or you can fly to Verona for about the same fare -- United flies from Dulles to Verona via Munich for $786 -- and travel by train on the Trenitalia ( http://www.trenitalia.com/ ). A first-class ticket is about $14 from Verona (about 1 1/2 hours) and $32 from Venice (three hours).

GETTING AROUND: Bolzano is best explored on foot. The surrounding Alto Aldige region can be reached via Bolzano's excellent SIT bus system. Visit http://www.sii.bz.it/ for schedules and fares.

WHEN TO GO: Bolzano is animated spring through fall with frequent concerts, outdoor markets, cycling events and festivals. It hosts a big Christmas market (Dec. 1-23 this year).

WHERE TO STAY: Bolzano's two luxury hotels are run by the same family. The Hotel Greif (Piazza Walther, 011-39-0471-318000, http://www.greif.it/ ) is a sleek, modern and wired hotel on the main square. A short walk to the edge of town, the Parkhotel Laurin (4 Via Laurin, 011-39-0471-311000, http://www.laurin.it/ ) is a vintage palace in a park setting. Doubles at either hotel start at $202 a night with breakfast. For a less expensive alternative, try the Hotel Scala Stiegl (11 Via Brennero, 011-39-0471-976-222, http://www.scalahot.com/ ). Doubles with breakfast start at about $130.

WHERE TO EAT: Bolzano's restaurants generally blend northern Italian and Tyrolean specialties at reasonable prices. Try the Vegele Wirtshaus (3 Via Goethe, 011-39-0471-973-938) for a Southern Tyrolean atmosphere and a menu ranging from goulash to tortellini; about $25 per person. Casa Al Torchio (2 Via Museo, 011-39-0471-978-109) is a wine bar, pizzeria and restaurant, a stone's throw from the Archaeological Museum. Pizzas run about $8, meals about $25.

We found the best gourmet dining of our trip in nearby Bressanone at Finsterwirt (3 Vicolo del Duomo, 011-39-0472-835-343), housed in an ancient canonical residence and run by the Hotel Goldener Adler. (Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I, Cosimo de Medici and the Dalai Lama all stayed here, and the place feels like it.) About $30 per person.

WHAT TO DO: Bolzano is full of small museums including the School Museum , the Mercantile Museum and the modern-art Museion . But no trip to Bolzano is complete without a visit to the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology (43 Via Museo 011-39-0471-320-100, http://www.archaeologiemuseum.it/ ) and its exhibit featuring Oetzi, the 5,000-year-old mummy found frozen in ice in the Alps a quarter-century ago. Admission is about $10.

Bolzano is also ringed by castles. The Castel Roncolo , or Runklestein Castle (011-39-0471-329-808) is a recently restored medieval fortress featuring a wide range of period frescoes on the subjects of love, game hunting and scenes from everyday life. Admission is about $10.

INFORMATION: Bolzano Bozen Tourist Board , http://www.bolzano-bozen.it/ .

-- Robert V. Camuto