Where to Call And Carry - Southern Maryland

Crabs, Barbecue Still Rule S.Md.

Piggy Wiggy's Barbecue won my heart two years ago during a summer spent tasting barbecue across the Washington region. My love affair with this old-fashioned restaurant and carryout is undiminished. The only thing that has changed is the continuing commercial development, not just in Dunkirk, but all along Route 4 on the way to Solomons. I stop at Piggy Wiggy's anytime I'm in the area, for either the pulled pork or the North Carolina barbecue sandwich, along with some potato salad (reminds me of my mother's) and deviled eggs, if they have them. The sweet potato pie is too sweet for me, but the cheesecake is always a winner. 10092 Southern Maryland Blvd. (Route 4), Charles County Plaza Shopping Center, Dunkirk, 410-257-4477.

Roland's of Chesapeake Station is more than just the main grocery in Chesapeake Beach. It also offers a changing menu of prepared dinner specials, which sometimes run out long before dinnertime. Recent selections have included roast beef with mashed potatoes and peas, ribs with macaroni and cheese and kale, corned beef and cabbage with potatoes and carrots, and salmon cakes with french fries and green beans. There is fried chicken every day, along with rotisserie chicken, available cut into pieces and sold by the cut, such as thighs. The chicken is moist, juicy and flavorful. It tastes like chicken, which is the highest compliment in an age of reconstituted chicken nuggets. Don't miss it. 7875 Bayside Rd., Chesapeake Beach, 410-257-0187.

Flavor of the South Cafe is just a short detour off Route 4 in Huntingtown, in a small wooden building that smells of hickory smoke. There is very little seating, and not even a lot of standing room, but there is a steady stream of customers who wait patiently for the barbecue, ribs and chicken served up here. The pulled pork, already napped with a sweet Southern tomato-based sauce, is sold by the pound and reheats very well in a microwave. The cafe also has beef barbecue and finely minced pork with North Carolina vinegar-based sauce, as well as wings and shrimp and crab. A slice of cake costs only $1 and is more than worth it. 3930 Old Town Rd., Huntingtown, 410-414-9407.

Mom's in the Kitchen in Prince Frederick is much more than a carryout. It offers regular restaurant seating and entertainment on the weekends. But it also caters to those who want to take their meals on the road, with a lengthy menu and daily specials that include soups and sandwiches, chili and salads. 114 S. Solomons Island Rd. (Route 4), Prince Frederick, 410-535-4355. http://www.momsinthekitchen.com/ .

Stoney's Seafood House in Prince Frederick is hardly the most scenic of Phillip Stone's three restaurants. But for carryout on a busy weeknight, it's a great place to stop for crab cakes. Of course, there are a lot more options on the menu -- fish, fowl and meat -- but the jumbo lump and backfin crab, held together with just a little filling, is the main reason to stop here. And unlike the waterfront original in Broomes Island, this Stoney's is open year-round. 545 N. Solomons Island Rd., Fox Run Shopping Center, Prince Frederick, 410-535-1888. http://www.stoneysseafoodhouse.com/ .

There was a time when Woodburns Gourmet Market was the only grocery store in Solomons. It's still a grocery store, but over the years has been transformed into so much more. Not only is there an extensive salad bar, but the store also has a full bakery (the carrot cake is terrific!) and a prepared food section with grilled sandwiches, pasta salads and entrees ready for carryout. 13920 S. Solomons Island Rd., Solomons, 410-326-3999.

Robert Plant graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., in 1984 and came to Southern Maryland more than a decade later to open and manage restaurants. Last year, he opened the Blue Wind Gourmet , a combination wine store and gourmet carryout in California, because, he said, "I wanted to open a place that I would enjoy going to." The enterprise, just off Three Notch Road across from Wal-Mart, is unlike most places in Southern Maryland: It's not part of a chain and it doesn't specialize in either barbecue or crab. Maryland crab soup (the vegetable version as opposed to cream of crab soup) is sometimes on the menu and is very good. But the emphasis here is on gourmet pizzas and sandwiches, including daily specials that feature such ingredients as roast pork (for a Cuban sandwich) and smoked duck. All the sandwiches are made on a choice of ciabatta (Italian bread) or focaccia (whole wheat Italian flat bread), and each comes with a small green salad with a choice of homemade dressings (the garlic-infused balsamic vinaigrette is a good choice). Pick up a bottle of wine for a great picnic. 22803 Gunston Dr., California, 301-737-2714. http://www.bluewindgourmet.com/ .

The Crossing at Casey Jones in La Plata is best known as a gourmet restaurant, but all of its menu is available for takeout, as well as everything served in the adjoining Irish pub, Casey Jones. The gourmet pizzas are a favorite, with yeasty, chewy crusts and an eclectic selection of toppings (such as Thai chili chicken or Caesar salad). Other favorites are the chicken fingers, either Buffalo style or served with honey mustard, bison burgers and the signature La Plata salad of mixed greens, tomatoes, carrots, raisins, apples, feta cheese and raspberry vinaigrette. 417 E. Charles St., La Plata, 301-932-6226. http://www.thecrossingatcaseyjones.com/ .

Johnny Boy's Ribs , just south of downtown La Plata on Highway 301, is the quintessential barbecue joint. There's a stack of wood by the back door, picnic tables outside are the only seating, and the barbecue tastes as good as that wood smoke smells. There is no "inside" at Johnny Boy's, at least for customers. Place your order at the window, wait until it's ready, then apply any condiments you need from a counter on the side. I like the pulled pork best, but for many it's all about the ribs. Decide for yourself . 7540 Crain Hwy. (Route 301), La Plata, 301-870-2526.

If you want to have the choice of carryout or sit-down, try Lefty's Barbecue Unlimited in Waldorf. Located in a small strip mall, Lefty's doesn't have quite the atmosphere of Johnny Boy's, but it has a wider menu and more comfortable surroundings. In addition to the usual varieties of barbecue (I like the North Carolina version best), the menu also includes fried chicken, fried fish and even steak. There also are very good vegetables, especially the fried okra. 2064 Crain Hwy. at the Pinefield South Shopping Center, Waldorf, 301-870-8998. http://www.leftysbarbecue.com/ .