Where to Call and Carry - Howard County
At Noah's on the Side, chef/owner Russell Braitsch's changing menu includes marinated loin of pork, right, and various desserts, above. The pulled pork sandwich, below, at Smokey Hollow BBQ Co. is a hit.
(Photos By Mark Gail -- The Washington Post)
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The deli and bar at Erik Rochard's Café de Paris in Columbia offers mainly sandwiches, pastries, quiches and salads, but it's also a place to pick up a few French favorites for a delicious dinner. Choose from among several patés, including a dense, gamy version served in the main restaurant, and add a loaf of bread and a little cheese, possibly brie, for starters. The restaurant's signature boeuf bourguignon, served over egg noodles or short pasta, reheats wonderfully, with no loss of flavor. Pick up an apple tart for dessert and dream about the Eiffel Tower. 8808 Centre Park Dr., Columbia, 410-997-3904,http:/
Harpers Choice Village Center in Columbia is home to two excellent options for takeout. Maiwand Kabob , long a favorite of Afghan expatriates, is rather plain, with a few tables for dining in. Takeout is the norm, and little wonder. Everything on the menu is good. The main dishes, particularly the kabobs -- of lamb, kofta (ground meat) or chicken -- are easily reheated at home with little loss of flavor, though the tandoori bread is best fresh from the oven. 5467 Harpers Farm Rd., Columbia, 410-992-7754.
Just across the parking lot, Zapata's True Mexican Food offers exactly that: Mexican fare. There are several excellent soups, including traditional tripe and hominy, as well as enchiladas, burritos and tacos (served in steamed corn tortillas rather than the crispy Tex-Mex version). The main dishes -- including chili verde, carnitas and chicken mole -- show the restaurant's strong Mexican roots. 5485 Harpers Farm Rd., Columbia, 410-715-6929, http:/
Pei Wei Asian Diner is a sibling of the popular P.F. Chang's China Bistro chain. The menu is eclectic, with nods to Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, Japanese and Mongolian cuisines. If you choose to dine in, place your order at the counter and a server will deliver the food to your table. There is a separate takeout line, where business is brisk. Many of the dishes travel well, especially those in sauces, such as Mandarin kung pao and lemon pepper preparations. There's a choice of chicken, pork, shrimp, scallops, beef or vegetables for each dish. Yes, it's a chain, but a new one in this area. 6478 Dobbin Center Way, Columbia, 410-423-2550,http:/
Russell and Sharon Braitsch are a husband-and-wife chef team who put the gourmet into takeout at their recently opened Noah's on the Side, named for their young son. Both have extensive culinary experience in the Baltimore area. But this Ellicott City newcomer is breaking new ground in Howard County. The dishes read -- and taste -- like restaurant fare. There are more choices than at most sit-down places, and selections change every two weeks. Everything we tried was excellent, and reheating instructions were written on the containers. Among the items tasted were cinnamon- and cashew-crusted red snapper, slices of New York strip steak, Yukon gold mashed potatoes, puff pastry-topped chicken potpie and chocolate mousse. There are dozens of other items on the menu, including specialty sandwiches, such as duck confit on a baguette with red grape chutney, and citrus-glazed roast turkey breast in a red pepper tortilla; soups; salads; and old-fashioned candy, including GooGoo clusters and Necco wafers. With takeout food this good, there is really no reason to cook. 9339 Baltimore National Pike, Ellicott City, 410-465-8030,http:/
Fisher's Bakery in Old Town Ellicott City is the kind of homegrown bakery that every small town once had. There are dozens of varieties of cookies, yeast rolls, breads (try the cheese), cinnamon buns, breakfast pastries and the specialty: wedding cakes. You don't need an occasion to take home one of the luscious cakes, especially anything involving chocolate. 8143 Main St., Ellicott City, 410-461-9275,http:/
Sushi is something I'd rather eat sitting face to face with the Japanese master who prepares it to my order. There aren't any seats at Asian Express in North Laurel, but this is some of the best takeout sushi I have found in the region. Nothing is prepared in advance; each piece or roll is made to order. Everything I tried was surprisingly good and fresh. 7500 Montpelier Rd., Suite 109, North Laurel, 301-725-8363.
Smokey Hollow BBQ Co. serves some of the best barbecue I have found in Howard County. I prefer the pulled pork, with coleslaw piled on. There are also ribs, chicken and Texas brisket, along with sides, including great barbecue beans. Whatever you order, don't forget the corn fritters. Lighter than hush puppies and packed with corn, the fritters are good enough for dessert. 7500 Montpelier Rd., North Laurel, 301-617-4227,http:/
