Where to Call And Carry - Fairfax County

The decor at Falls Church's Elevation Burger reminds me of Atlanta's Varsity, which calls itself the world's largest drive-in. It's all spiffy white and chrome. There's a very limited menu: mainly hamburgers (made from organic beef), veggie burgers, milkshakes and fries cooked in olive oil. The burgers tend to be overcooked, which dries them out. But the buns and fixings are first-rate, and the fries are something to write home about. There is a selection of interesting soft drinks, such as Boylan's black cherry soda, and a few organic beef cuts for sale. There are no call-in orders -- ever. I think it's worth the short wait. 442 S. Washington St., Falls Church, 703-237-4343, http://www.elevationburger.com/ .

Chutzpah Deli in Fairfax Town Center is almost as spare, but its menu seems to be all-encompassing. There are bagels and bialys brought in from New York, along with cheesecakes and sour pickles. There are giant sandwiches stuffed with corned beef, pastrami, liverwurst and tongue. It's not New York's Carnegie Deli, but it's the best around. 12214 Fairfax Town Center, Fairfax, 703-385-8883,http://www.chutzpahdeli.com.

Roseina's, in the Hollin Hall area, might be the best-loved takeout in the region. Its loyal supporters flooded me with e-mails about its virtues. Uffe Mikkelsen, who spent more than a decade cooking for Ritz-Carlton and then at Catering by Windows, and his wife, Joy, bought the already popular Roseina's in July 2002. Uffe Mikkelsen is straightforward: This is his only location, and he plans never to expand. The Mikkelsens love what they are doing, and they make certain they limit their catering and carryout commitments so they aren't stretched too thin. There are daily specials (the butternut squash with cinnamon and navy bean soups were a big hit at my house), standbys such as meatloaf and mashed potatoes, and deli products sold by the pound. A small but select wine list is available, along with a few sweets. The corn casserole is good enough for dessert. Most of the servings are large enough for at least two people. 1307 Shenandoah Rd., Alexandria, 703-768-0064,http://www.roseinas.com.

El Pollo Ranchero has a full Tex-Mex menu of burritos, enchiladas and fajitas with a few Latin American specialties, such as pupusas and fried plantains. But the best reason to stop at this cafe on Route 1 is the Peruvian chicken. Rubbed with the family's special blend of spices and roasted over a hardwood charcoal fire for about 90 minutes, the chicken is juicy and flavorful. It's available whole or by the half or quarter . 6324 Richmond Hwy., Alexandria, 703-721-2000.

Primo Family Restaurant has been catering to south Fairfax families for more than 25 years with its combination of Greek and southern Italian favorites. In addition to the dining room, there is a special carryout section for ordering signature dishes such as lasagna, manicotti, moussaka, spanakopita, gyros and souvlaki. 1636-A Belle View Blvd., Alexandria, 703-765-6766 .

In the strip malls that line Vienna's Maple Avenue, you might miss Skorpios Maggio's Family Restaurant. Don't. The family-owned Greek diner has customers standing in line and filling the tables at lunch, and the gyro seems to be the most popular item. It might be the best gyro I have ever eaten -- with a knife and fork, because it's way too large to be eaten by hand. The strips of lamb and beef are nicely browned and juicy. The homemade cucumber sauce is the perfect complement. Even in the middle of winter, the tomatoes are tasty. The menu includes Greek favorites, such as moussaka and pastitsio, along with a large selection of salads. 421 Maple Ave. E., Vienna, 703-938-7777,http://www.skorpiosrestaurant.com.

The Russian Gourmet is part of the U.N. of eateries at the Kmart Plaza in Herndon. On a Sunday afternoon, everyone inside seemed to be speaking Russian. Don't be put off; English signs abound, explaining the Eastern European bounty. Although there are rows of grocery products, the most intriguing items are in and on the refrigerated case that runs the length of the store. Try stuffed cabbage rolls or pastries similar to cheese blintzes. There are Hungarian, Estonian and Moscow sausages, beef borscht and Kiev-style chicken cutlets. This is an easy and elegant way to sample Russian and Slavic specialties. 468 Elden St., Herndon, 703-707-8181; and 1396 Chain Bridge Rd., McLean, 703-760-0680,http://www.russiangourmet.com.

Just down the street, Teocalli Tamale offers a grand selection of burritos and tacos. But the tamales are what make driving to Herndon worthwhile. The choices are red chili and pork or green chili and cheese. Both are wonderful. Order them by the half-dozen and steam them at home, and your guests will never know you didn't make them yourself. Don't forget the guacamole -- a luscious melange of just-ripe avocados, onions, tomatoes and cilantro -- and take some green salsa for a little extra zip. 336 Elden St., Herndon, 703-904-9336.

Willard's Real Pit BBQ has an industrial stainless steel look but a pure country heart. Not far from Routes 50 and 28 in a strip mall near the Dulles Expo Center, Willard's offers pulled pork, brisket, sausages and ribs, with all the trimmings. Take home enough for a couple of meals; the food reheats very well. 4300 Chantilly Shopping Center (Willard Road at the Dulles Expo Center), 703-488-9970.

Seafoodie in Reston's South Lakes Village Center is one of the newest takeouts in the county, opened last fall by a former techie and his lawyer wife. Hands down, it had the very best food I sampled. Part of the reason: The dishes are designed to be cooked, rather than reheated, at home. Owner Kevin Mesiah makes it easy. You bake virtually everything in a 450-degree oven, and the time is clearly listed on a handout. The signature crab cake, a tennis-ball-size mound of jumbo lump crab, was perfectly cooked in 15 minutes, and there wasn't a single piece of shell in it. Shrimp and scallops tasted homemade. The medallions of beef tenderloin cooked to medium rare in exactly seven minutes, though I'd prefer a little less marinating. Mom's macaroni and cheese and the quart of seafood gumbo were the stars. Seafoodie is more than worth the detour. 11103-F South Lakes Dr., Reston, 703-391-0098 ,http://www.seafoodies.com.

Primo Italiano, just off Sunset Hills Road in Reston's Plaza America, looks like just another pizza and sub place, but it features daily specials that are just right for taking home and reheating for dinner. There are also deli meats, a small selection of Italian sweets and dried pastas, and lots of fresh pasta dishes available for carryout. The white pizza with mozzarella and fontina cheeses, herbs and extra garlic was simply too good to wait until I got home. I gobbled down a couple of slices driving back to the District; what was left reheated well, but it wasn't as good as fresh from the oven. 11688 Plaza America Dr., Reston, 703-471-0016,http://www.primoitaliano.com .

Glance through the windows of Reston Town Center's Edibles Incredible! and you might think that gift baskets are the main commodity. But step inside and treat yourself to some of the most amazing cakes around. The Strawberry Delight looks like an overgrown strawberry shortcake; the Brown Derby is a version of German chocolate. But the cake to choose is the Chocolate Fudge Supreme. The buttercream icing is wonderfully creamy, and the chocolate layers are dense and rich. And the fudge -- homemade chocolate fudge -- that serves as one layer of filling puts this creation into another realm. 11919-A Freedom Dr., Reston, 703-437-6660,http://www.ediblesincredible.com.

FAIRFAX COUNTY- FALLS CHURCH

The decor at Falls Church's Elevation Burger reminds me of Atlanta's Varsity, which calls itself the world's largest drive-in. It's all spiffy white and chrome. There's a very limited menu: mainly hamburgers (made from organic beef), veggie burgers, milkshakes and fries cooked in olive oil. The burgers tend to be overcooked, which dries them out. But the buns and fixings are first-rate, and the fries are something to write home about. There is a selection of interesting soft drinks, such as Boylan's black cherry soda, and a few organic beef cuts for sale. There are no call-in orders -- ever. I think it's worth the short wait. 442 S. Washington St., Falls Church, 703-237-4343, http://www.elevationburger.com/ .

Chutzpah Deli in Fairfax Town Center is almost as spare, but its menu seems to be all-encompassing. There are bagels and bialys brought in from New York, along with cheesecakes and sour pickles. There are giant sandwiches stuffed with corned beef, pastrami, liverwurst and tongue. It's not New York's Carnegie Deli, but it's the best around. 12214 Fairfax Town Center, Fairfax, 703-385-8883,http://www.chutzpahdeli.com.

Roseina's , in the Hollin Hall area, might be the best-loved takeout in the region. Its loyal supporters flooded me with e-mails about its virtues. Uffe Mikkelsen, who spent more than a decade cooking for Ritz-Carlton and then at Catering by Windows, and his wife, Joy, bought the already popular Roseina's in July 2002. Uffe Mikkelsen is straightforward: This is his only location, and he plans never to expand. The Mikkelsens love what they are doing, and they make certain they limit their catering and carryout commitments so they aren't stretched too thin. There are daily specials (the butternut squash with cinnamon and navy bean soups were a big hit at my house), standbys such as meatloaf and mashed potatoes, and deli products sold by the pound. A small but select wine list is available, along with a few sweets. The corn casserole is good enough for dessert. Most of the servings are large enough for at least two people. 1307 Shenandoah Rd., Alexandria, 703-768-0064,http://www.roseinas.com.

El Pollo Ranchero has a full Tex-Mex menu of burritos, enchiladas and fajitas with a few Latin American specialties, such as pupusas and fried plantains. But the best reason to stop at this cafe on Route 1 is the Peruvian chicken. Rubbed with the family's special blend of spices and roasted over a hardwood charcoal fire for about 90 minutes, the chicken is juicy and flavorful. It's available whole or by the half or quarter . 6324 Richmond Hwy., Alexandria, 703-721-2000.

Primo Family Restaurant has been catering to south Fairfax families for more than 25 years with its combination of Greek and southern Italian favorites. In addition to the dining room, there is a special carryout section for ordering signature dishes such as lasagna, manicotti, moussaka, spanakopita, gyros and souvlaki. 1636-A Belle View Blvd., Alexandria, 703-765-6766 .

In the strip malls that line Vienna's Maple Avenue, you might miss Skorpios Maggio's Family Restaurant. Don't. The family-owned Greek diner has customers standing in line and filling the tables at lunch, and the gyro seems to be the most popular item. It might be the best gyro I have ever eaten -- with a knife and fork, because it's way too large to be eaten by hand. The strips of lamb and beef are nicely browned and juicy. The homemade cucumber sauce is the perfect complement. Even in the middle of winter, the tomatoes are tasty. The menu includes Greek favorites, such as moussaka and pastitsio, along with a large selection of salads. 421 Maple Ave. E., Vienna, 703-938-7777,http://www.skorpiosrestaurant.com.

The Russian Gourmet is part of the U.N. of eateries at the Kmart Plaza in Herndon. On a Sunday afternoon, everyone inside seemed to be speaking Russian. Don't be put off; English signs abound, explaining the Eastern European bounty. Although there are rows of grocery products, the most intriguing items are in and on the refrigerated case that runs the length of the store. Try stuffed cabbage rolls or pastries similar to cheese blintzes. There are Hungarian, Estonian and Moscow sausages, beef borscht and Kiev-style chicken cutlets. This is an easy and elegant way to sample Russian and Slavic specialties. 468 Elden St., Herndon, 703-707-8181; and 1396 Chain Bridge Rd., McLean, 703-760-0680,http://www.russiangourmet.com.

Just down the street , Teocalli Tamale offers a grand selection of burritos and tacos. But the tamales are what make driving to Herndon worthwhile. The choices are red chili and pork or green chili and cheese. Both are wonderful. Order them by the half-dozen and steam them at home, and your guests will never know you didn't make them yourself. Don't forget the guacamole -- a luscious melange of just-ripe avocados, onions, tomatoes and cilantro -- and take some green salsa for a little extra zip. 336 Elden St., Herndon, 703-904-9336.

Willard's Real Pit BBQ has an industrial stainless steel look but a pure country heart. Not far from Routes 50 and 28 in a strip mall near the Dulles Expo Center, Willard's offers pulled pork, brisket, sausages and ribs, with all the trimmings. Take home enough for a couple of meals; the food reheats very well. 4300 Chantilly Shopping Center (Willard Road at the Dulles Expo Center), 703-488-9970.

Seafoodie in Reston's South Lakes Village Center is one of the newest takeouts in the county, opened last fall by a former techie and his lawyer wife. Hands down, it had the very best food I sampled. Part of the reason: The dishes are designed to be cooked, rather than reheated, at home. Owner Kevin Mesiah makes it easy. You bake virtually everything in a 450-degree oven, and the time is clearly listed on a handout. The signature crab cake, a tennis-ball-size mound of jumbo lump crab, was perfectly cooked in 15 minutes, and there wasn't a single piece of shell in it. Shrimp and scallops tasted homemade. The medallions of beef tenderloin cooked to medium rare in exactly seven minutes, though I'd prefer a little less marinating. Mom's macaroni and cheese and the quart of seafood gumbo were the stars. Seafoodie is more than worth the detour. 11103-F South Lakes Dr., Reston, 703-391-0098 ,http://www.seafoodies.com.

Primo Italiano, just off Sunset Hills Road in Reston's Plaza America, looks like just another pizza and sub place, but it features daily specials that are just right for taking home and reheating for dinner. There are also deli meats, a small selection of Italian sweets and dried pastas, and lots of fresh pasta dishes available for carryout. The white pizza with mozzarella and fontina cheeses, herbs and extra garlic was simply too good to wait until I got home. I gobbled down a couple of slices driving back to the District; what was left reheated well, but it wasn't as good as fresh from the oven. 11688 Plaza America Dr., Reston, 703-471-0016,http://www.primoitaliano.com .

Glance through the windows of Reston Town Center's Edibles Incredible! and you might think that gift baskets are the main commodity. But step inside and treat yourself to some of the most amazing cakes around. The Strawberry Delight looks like an overgrown strawberry shortcake; the Brown Derby is a version of German chocolate. But the cake to choose is the Chocolate Fudge Supreme. The buttercream icing is wonderfully creamy, and the chocolate layers are dense and rich. And the fudge -- homemade chocolate fudge -- that serves as one layer of filling puts this creation into another realm. 11919-A Freedom Dr., Reston, 703-437-6660,http://www.ediblesincredible.com.