From Salvadoran to Sushi, Where to Call and Carry - Montgomery County

Unlike Cuba de Ayer and Chapala, Maiwand Kabob is more carryout than destination restaurant, though there are chairs and tables for eating in. The Afghan specialties here are lamb, chicken and beef kabobs, served with wonderfully chewy tandoori bread. 15508 Old Columbia Pike, Burtonsville, 301-421-9251.

Dempsey's of Ashton is an old-fashioned neighborhood diner in the small shopping center at Olney Sandy Spring Road and New Hampshire Avenue (Routes 108 and 650). It's a great place to pick up a juicy, hand-formed fresh hamburger or a club sandwich. But it's the Nuts About Fudge pie that vaults Dempsey's into must-try range. The pie is made especially for the restaurant and is simply the best chocolate pie I have ever eaten. The crust is like a chocolate cookie, and the dense but creamy filling, laced with pecans, has the texture of warm fudge but isn't cloying. I had planned to eat only a few bites of the first slice I bought but finished it before I got back to my office. You can get it with ice cream and chocolate sauce. Oh, and the breakfasts here are good, too. 1 Olney Sandy Spring Rd., Ashton, 301-570-0161.

Jamaican food is the specialty at the new Grand'Ma Cooking restaurant at Norbeck Road and Georgia Avenue in Rockville, but fried chicken is a close second. Jerk chicken and curry goat are also on the menu, along with Caribbean-style breakfasts such as cornmeal porridge . 4007 Norbeck Rd. A, Rockville, 301-929-3377 or 301-929-3388.

All kinds of sweets are the trade of Les Delices , though it's located amid the auto body shops and light industrial buildings along East Gude Drive in Rockville. There are cookies and tarts, but the ethereal mousse cakes are my favorite. Try the orange and chocolate mousse cake encased in ladyfingers for a special treat. 1615 E. Gude Dr., Rockville, 301-738-2256.

Rich's More Than a Deli serves the breakfast and lunch crowd around the courthouses in Rockville. All the meats are cooked on site, so when you order a turkey sandwich, you can watch as the meat is carved from a whole turkey. Roast beef, brisket and ham get the same home-style treatment. 110 N. Washington St., Rockville, 301-762-6696.

Urban Bar-B-Que in Rockville has been gussied up a bit, with a few tables occupying space once devoted to a too-large kitchen, but little else has changed. There is a still a bucket of peanuts to stave off hunger while you wait for the best barbecue around. Takeout orders, even for sandwiches, come packaged with the meat and the bun in separate compartments. I like the pulled pork best, but don't forget the extra sauce -- you'll need it. Skip the potato salad but not the coleslaw. 2007 Chapman Ave., Rockville, 240-290-4827.http://www.urbanbbqco.com.

Pepito's Tacos Bakery is significant among the many Mexican and Salvadoran eateries that line Diamond Avenue in Gaithersburg. There is no room to sit and not a lot of room to stand and wait. But it's worth standing in line for the tasty tacos, tamales and burritos that are turned out here. The carnitas (pieces of slow-cooked roast pork, brightened with a little lime juice) are my favorite, but don't miss the chili and cheese tamales, either. There is a selection of salsas available at a small bar. Baked goods are also available. 107-B E. Diamond Ave., Gaithersburg, 301-990-1541, 240-631-2088. http://www.tacospepitosbakery.com.

Vasilis Mediterranean Grill is a Greek delight on Main Street in Kentlands. The spanakopita (spinach and feta pie) heats up well at home, as does the lamb shish kebab. Pikrilia , which includes hummus, cucumber and eggplant dips served with warm pita wedges, is sufficient for an appetizer for two to four people. 353 Main St., Gaithersburg, 301-977-1011. http://www.vasilisgreek.com/ .