Correction to This Article
An April 27 article referred incorrectly to Dubai as the capital of the United Arab Emirates. Earlier, the same article referred correctly to Abu Dhabi as the capital.
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In U.A.E., Tradition Yields to Times

Fatima Zaabi, wearing a traditional veil used by some women in Fujairah, one of the seven monarchies of the United Arab Emirates, enjoys comforts that have become commonplace, from a cellphone and dishwasher to servants.
Fatima Zaabi, wearing a traditional veil used by some women in Fujairah, one of the seven monarchies of the United Arab Emirates, enjoys comforts that have become commonplace, from a cellphone and dishwasher to servants. (By Anthony Shadid -- The Washington Post)
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"Shame on you! You're not taking care of them," she scolded the farmhands. "Can you live without food?"

Amna shadowed her, wearing an expression of pride, respect and perhaps a hint of relief. As she walked with her aunt, she thought about the way life had changed.

"Everything was so simple back then, and everything is so complicated now," said Amna. "We miss that. We're more comfortable now, we have more freedom than before, we can go work with men. We can appreciate the life they had, but that doesn't mean we want it back." She thought for a moment about the change in her city and country. Good and bad, she suggested.

"It's like a weapon -- you can use it to defend yourself, but it can also backfire," she said.

As she talked, Zaabi crouched to the ground and started picking grass to feed the goats herself.

"Take a picture of me while I'm working," she beckoned.

She laughed, and bundled more grass. "I never left the life. Thank God, I never gave it up."

Special correspondent Nadia Rahman contributed to this report.


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