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Sunday, May 21, 2006

GETTING THERE: Lufthansa and United fly nonstop from Dulles to Munich, with fares during the World Cup running about $1,700 round trip. Connecting service is cheaper, with fares on such major carriers as Alitalia, US Airways and Air France starting at $1,120. From Munich, you can take a daily train to Stuttgart on the Deutsche Bahn ( http://www.bahn.de/ ). Rates start at $48 each way; trip time is about two hours 20 minutes.

WHERE TO STAY: Rates for the hotels listed below are for non-World Cup times; expect prices to be significantly higher and rooms harder to obtain during the event itself (June 9-July 9). You can also book rooms in Munich, Stuttgart and other host cities through FIFA ( http://www.fifaworldcup.com/ ), the event organizer.

· Munich: At the Bayerischer Hof (2-4 Promenadeplatz, 800-745-8883, http://www.bayerischerhof.de/ ), the rooms are spacious and well-appointed, and there's a great rooftop spa and bar. Doubles start at $217 a night double. If location is paramount, the three-star Conrad-Hotel de Ville (10 Schillerstrasse, 011-49-89-54-55-6100, http://www.conrad-hotel.de/ ) is near the train station. The decor is old- fashioned but comfortable. Doubles, starting at $111 a night, include breakfast. At the Mercure Hotel Muenchen Schwabing (120 Leopoldstrasse, 800-221-4542, http://www.mercure.com/ ), the rooms are decorated in bright colors with contemporary furniture, and for its location in the vibrant pub and theater area of Schwabing, it's hard to beat the $71 rate.

· Stuttgart: Le Meridien Stuttgart (30 Willy-Brandt-Strasse, 888-625-5144, http://www.starwoodhotels.com/ ) offers some of the finest lodging in town, with spacious rooms, comfy beds, a nice spa and hearty breakfasts. Doubles booked online start at $215. The Kronen Hotel (48 Kronenstrasse, 011-49-711-22510) is a small, modern property that's stylishly appointed. Doubles, starting at $100 on weekends, include a gourmet buffet breakfast with free-flowing sparkling wine.

WHERE TO EAT:

· Munich: Fans of Bavarian food will eat up the Hofbraeukeller (19 Innere Wiener Strasse, 011-49-89-45-99-250). From pig's knuckles to stuffed pork chops, all of the local treats are prepared remarkably well, especially considering that more than 1,000 meals are served daily. Every dish costs under $6. Unionsbraeu (42 Einsteinstrasse, 011-49-89-47-7677) is a small family-run place with a more refined level of Bavarian fare. A dinner for two of veal steak, stuffed zucchini and roast potatoes (and the inevitable rounds of beer) will cost $30.

· Stuttgart: Alte Post (43 Friedrichstrasse, 011-49-711-293-079) is for diners who want the best in local specialties: noodles, roast beef covered in onions, etc. A dinner for two with wine costs about $90. Bierhaus West (40a Seidenstrasse, 011-49-711-29-5917) is a fun dining and drinking place where you can get sausages, noodles and a wide selection of beers. Lunch for two will run around $40.

WHERE TO HANG OUT:

· Munich: The Arc Pub (24 Schraudolphstrasse, 011-49-89-287- 78138) is a good place to catch a sports event on the tube or mingle with young expats and Bavarians over beers. The Allianz Arena (011- 49-89-20050, http://www.allianz-arena.de/ ) is a state-of-the-art stadium near the Froettmaning station. Guided tours are conducted daily in German. Reservations required; cost is about $10. Elisabethmarkt (Elisabethplatz, Schwabing) has gourmet food stalls open weekdays and Saturdays.

· Stuttgart: At Mineralbad Leuze (2-6 Am Leuzebad, 011-49-711- 216-7979), pay $8.50 for two hours of unlimited access to swimming pools, saunas and other facilities. The Schellenturm (72 Weberstrasse, 011-49-711-236-4888), built in 1564, is the last remaining tower of the fortification around the city. The wine bar offers German dishes and wines for around $3 a glass.

INFO: German National Tourist Office, 212-661-7200, http://www.cometogermany.com/ . Munich Tourist Office , http://www.muenchen-tourist.de/englisch/index_e.htm . Portal Muenchen , http://www.muenchen.de/ . Stuttgart Marketing and Tourism , http://www.stuttgart-tourist.de/ .

-- Gary Lee



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