DETAILS

Namibia

GETTING THERE: Most flights to Windhoek involve more than one airline and at least two connections, including one in the United States or Europe and one in Johannesburg, with airfares starting at about $2,500. South African Airways, British Airways, Delta, Air France and Lufthansa are good bets. Another option is to fly to London's Gatwick Airport and take Air Namibia (800-626-4242, http://www.airnamibia.com.na/ ) directly to Windhoek, a 10-hour trip; flights are $1,010 round trip and are available three days a week.

GETTING AROUND: There are taxis in Windhoek, but minimal public transport. Renting a car is recommended, and a four-wheel-drive vehicle will give you more options for off-the-beaten-path exploration and is helpful for camping. Driving at night, other than on main paved highways, can be harrowing and should be avoided. The roads, while in good condition, frequently are gravel; breakdowns and flat tires are not uncommon, so be prepared to change a tire or assist a fellow traveler.

There also are numerous package tours originating in Windhoek that range from luxury to backpacking. The Cardboard Box Travel Shop (see below) is a good place to start looking.

WHERE TO STAY: Kulala Desert Lodge (011-264-61-274-500, http://www.wilderness-safaris.com/ ; search for Kulala), near the dunes at Sossusvlei in Namib Naukluft Park, offers rustically luxurious thatched-roofed cottages surrounding a main lodge, which has a restaurant, bar and outdoor patio with stunning views of the dunes. Rooms range from $180 to $250 per night, depending on the season. All-inclusive rates of $326 per person double include breakfast and dinner, and sunrise and sundown drives through the dunes.

To re-create your own Brangelina celebrity holiday, Burning Shore (Fourth Street, Long Beach, 011-264-64-207-568, http://www.burningshore.info/ ) is a short drive south of Swakopmund in Langstrand (Long Beach). Rates per person for double occupancy start at $60 a night in the off- season (February through July) and $75 in high season, including breakfast.

In Windhoek, the Chameleon (5 and 7 Voight St., 011-264-61-244-347, http://www.chameleonbackpackers.com/chameleon_backpackers.asp ) is a laid-back lodge a short distance from the city center that caters to a wide range of travelers. Shared rooms are about $10, and rooms in a lovely guesthouse run $30 to $50 per night, including self-service breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: La Marmite (383 Independence Ave., Windhoek, 011-264-61-24-0306), with its authentic African decor and funky vibe, serves up a range of West African dishes at modest prices. The Cameroonian curry is a must. Entrees start at $8.

WHAT TO TAKE: The temperature varies daily in Namibia, with sunny afternoons and cool desert nights. Clothing for warm and cold weather often is necessary in the same day, so bring layers. Sunscreen, hats and insect repellent are musts. In addition, take precautions against malaria, particularly in the north and if going on safari.

WHAT TO DO:

· Visiting Katatura or other townships is best done with a local or a guide who knows the area. WanderZone Tours in Windhoek (011-264-81- 214-8404, http://www.wanderzonetours.com/ ) offers historical, cultural and township tours; the latter are $20.

· The seaside town of Swakopmund has turned into an extreme sports paradise, with sandboarding and quad bike tours on the dunes, surfing, balloon tours and skydiving. Details: Namib Publicity and Tourism Association, 28 Sam Nujoma Ave., 011-264-64-404-827, http://www.namibi.org.na/ .

· Sossusvlei , in Namib Naukluft Park, is a four- to five-hour drive from both Windhoek and Swakopmund. There's a $12 entrance fee, plus $2 per car. The dunes are another 25 miles from the park's entrance in Sesriem. Near the base of the dunes is a shuttle service for those without four-wheel-drive, at $15 round trip.

· Etosha National Park , about 250 miles north of Windhoek, is home to elephants, giraffes, rhinos, lions, leopards and cheetahs. Tours, camping and lodges available. Admission is $12, plus $1.50 per car. Namibian Wildlife Resorts books lodging in Etosha at its Web site, http://www.nwr.com.na/ .

INFORMATION: Namibia Tourism Board , 011-264-61-290-6000, http://www.namibiatourism.com.na/ . Namibia Holiday & Travel , http://www.holidaytravel.com.na/ , and the Cardboard Box Travel Shop , http://www.namibian.org/ , are good Internet resources.

-- Elliot Hannon