WINE

BEN GILIBERTI

Like a delicate flower that blossoms once a year, rosé wines truly come into their own in late spring and early summer. With lively fruit and a festive pink tint, they are an ideal choice for this time of the year, when the mercury dips and soars so unpredictably.

Served cold from the refrigerator, rosés work splendidly as an apéritif, like a good white wine. At a cool room temperature, however, they show sufficient varietal character and have enough body to replace red wines with main courses of meat and poultry. Although many pink wines, such as so-called white zinfandel, are relatively sweet, better rosés are relatively dry wines, with bracing acidity on the finish.

While excellent rosés are produced around the world, France remains the master of the dry rosé, producing many high-quality, moderately priced examples. The following French rosés are highly recommended. Make sure to buy the youngest available vintage. Prices are approximate.

La Rosee de Pavie 2005 ($15; France; imported by Touton Selections): While the 2005 red from the esteemed St. Emilion first growth Chateau Pavie will undoubtedly sell briskly for around $200 a bottle, for $15, its lush 2005 rosé also conveys the perfect ripeness of the great 2005 vintage and has one of the longest finishes I have experienced on a rosé.

Chateau Guiot 2005 Rosé "Costieres de Nimes" ($9 to $10; France; imported by Kacher Selections): Deep in color for a rosé, this almost-red wine is an ideal accompaniment to grilled ribs and barbecued chicken.

Chateau Calon-Segur 2005 "Rose de Calon" ($13 to $15; France; imported by Calvert-Woodley): Showing distinctive cabernet sauvignon varietal character, this fascinating strawberry and a cedar-scented rosé from Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe Chateau Calon-Segur is ideal for light quaffing.

Domaine de la Petite Cassagne 2005 Rosé "Costieres de Nimes" ($9 to $10; France; Kacher Selections): This is made from a classic Rhone blend of syrah, grenache, cinsault and carignane and offers lovely aromatics and loads of bright strawberry fruit. Produced by organic farming methods.

La Rosee de Monbousquet 2005 ($15; France; imported by Touton Selections): Soft and very fruity, with good intensity, this is perfect for serving ice-cold with grilled ribs and salmon.

Ben Giliberti, The Post's wine critic since 1987, can be reached atfood@washpost.com.