(By Kathryn Norwood For The Washington Post)
Wednesday, May 31, 2006


Your choices in under-$10, no-fork-required entrees are limited at most places: burgers, some form of grilled chicken, and maybe a crab cake sandwich, all too often served with bland, squishy fries. Iota's crispy catfish wrap stands out in comparison. The crunch of the filet, fried in a minimal coating of flour, sets off the burrito-style fillings that surround it -- black beans, corn, diced red onions, jack cheese and lettuce. It picks up enough heat from the spices in the flour and chipotle mayonnaise to complement even the hoppier beers poured at this Arlington bar. Equally important: the fries that fill out the plate, golden hunks of potato encrusted in flakes of salt and pepper. (We'll tolerate the one fry in 10 that winds up excessively armored in salt.) $8.25 at dinner.

Iota Club and Cafe, 2832 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, 703-522-8340.

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