FORAGING

A Welcome Chill in the Air

RITA'S WATER ICE ON RHODE ISLAND AVENUE NE

A sweet cold front is building in the Washington area. Rita's Water Ice, a Philadelphia-based chain that serves slushy, smooth Italian ices and other frigid, perfect-for-summer treats, has just opened locations in Clinton and Columbia and has plans to add seven more in the coming year.

We stopped by the Rita's at Rhode Island and South Dakota avenues NE to get a taste. After a quick few spoonfuls of Berry Banana Cream Ice, though, the first thing we got was a splitting headache -- you know, the kind you experience when you eagerly stuff your face with ice cream. Co-owner Charnita Brock, 38, laughs.

"There are always people standing outside holding their heads," says the D.C. native, who opened the small carryout-only franchise with her sister, Angela Brock, 47, last August. She had her first taste of Rita's ices as a student at Penn State University and was immediately hooked. Years later, she left her administrative job with the D.C. public school system to take up this much cooler career.

The ices, available in six sizes (prices range from $1.30 for kids size to $2.50 for a large size and $34 for a 2.5-gallon Party Pack Tub), are made fresh daily by combining a flavor mix developed by Rita's with water and sugar (the Brocks go through 2,400 pounds of sugar a month). Mango is the most popular flavor. Most of the ices get special treatment after they are frozen. Bits of freshly grated zest dot the lemon ice. For the Twisted Melon and watermelon ices, Brock and her staff dice ripe fruit and stir in the pieces. For the Wild Black Cherry Ice, they add chopped cherries.

But not all of the ices are made of fruit. Check out one of our favorites: the rich and chocolaty Fudge Brownie Cream Ice with chunks of chewy fudge.

Lighter than ice cream -- most are nonfat -- the ices come in 33 flavors. On any given day, 12 are available; the selection depends on the Brocks' mood. Customers can mix and match. There are also four sugar-free flavors.

Don't see your favorite flavor today? "Call," says Angela, "and I'll try and make it tomorrow."

Rita's Water Ice, 2318 Rhode Island Ave. NE. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call 202-636-7482. Also several stores in the Maryland suburbs. For locations, go tohttp://www.ritasice.com.

-- Matt McMillen

Freelance writer Matt McMillen last wrote for Food about Peace of Cake Bakery in Stevensville, Md.