Choose Big, Bold American Reds for the Fourth

Hogue Cellars 2003 Syrah "Columbia Valley" ($9 to $10; Washington; Bacchus): Relatively full-bodied with firm tannins, this will stand up quite well to charcoal-grilled steak.

Francis Coppola Presents Syrah 2004 ($10; California; NDC): This robust red offers layers of vanilla-accented blackberry fruit and a hearty finish.

Desolation Flats 2004 "Rustler's Red Wine" ($10; California; Bacchus): The Italian refosco grape adds a distinctive plummy note to this fresh blend of zinfandel and petite syrah.

Ben Giliberti, The Post's wine critic since 1987, can be reached atfood@washpost.com.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Red Flyer 2003 "California Red Table Wine" ($9; California; DOPS)

Food Match Born in the USA for the BBQ grill. Serve lightly chilled with steak, ribs or chicken in barbecue sauce.

In the Glass Vibrant purple color, with deep ruby highlights at the rim. A full bouquet of vanilla, spice and black cherry is followed on the palate by oodles of lush strawberry/cranberry-like fruit, finishing with a crescendo of ripe tannins.

Grapes Syrah (75 percent), durif (16 percent), mourvedre (4 percent), carignan (4 percent), grenache (1 percent). Although this is a classic French Rhone grape blend, the 12 months of aging in French and American oak barrels is a California touch.

Geography From Monterey County, on California's central coast, where the wind and fog interact with the sun to slow the grapes' ripening, leading to a growing season that is up to two months longer than in warmer regions such as Napa Valley.

On the Label Inspired by the posters for sci-fi flicks such as "War of the Worlds." Also a subtle nod to Bonny Doon Vineyard's pioneering Le Cigare Volant Rhone-style blend, which depicts an extraterrestrial cigare volant ("flying cigar") on its label.

Where to Buy It Distributed to retail shops in the Washington area by DOPS Wholesale. For more information, visit http://www.redflyerwine.com/ .

TELL US WHAT YOU THOUGHT

If you give Red Flyer 2003 a try, send your comments to food@washpost.com. We may excerpt them in an upcoming issue.

--BEN GILIBERTI