Hometown Heroes

PHILADELPHIA CHEESESTEAK FACTORY

Probably the best-known place to get a cheese steak in Washington, this always-bustling spot benefits from its prime Georgetown location -- particularly when the bars close and late-night boozers get the munchies. Frankly, that may be the best time to visit PCF: A few beers into the night, you're less likely to notice that the cheese steaks here are rather ordinary fare. Though cheap and generous in size, the sandwiches are on the bland side and could use more seasoning. So go ahead and use the mustard -- it couldn't hurt. This place does get bonus points, however, for offering Tastykakes (another Philadelphia tradition) at the counter. $4.95.

3347 M St. NW. 202-333-8040. http://www.phillysteakfactory.com/ .

PHILADELPHIA MIKE'S

You automatically raise the cheese steak stakes when you include "Philadelphia" in the name of your establishment. So first-time customers at this Bethesda eatery (the original of this local franchise) are rightly suspicious when they see a pile of already cooked steak and onions just waiting to be reheated on the grill. After all, that's not how it's done in Philly. And yet . . . wow, this is a really tasty steak, saltier than most, smothered in melted American cheese and with a trace of garlic as well. And while the soft, very doughy roll isn't orthodox, it is tasty, baked on the premises and more than up to the task of holding this wonderful mess together. $4.49.

7732 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda. 301-656-0103. (Additional locations in Arlington, Chantilly and Reston.)

SOUTH STREET STEAKS

Less than a year old, this is the one place in the area that gets it almost exactly right. From the signs telling you how to order, to the cooks with addytood, to the waffle fries dredged in Cheez Whiz, everything feels authentic. Even the posters on the wall are of Philadelphia sports heroes -- and, of course, goats. Above all though, the cheese steaks are served up hot, perfectly gooey and a little on the chewy side. The real clincher? They're served in fresh rolls from Amoroso's bakery -- the bakery of choice for many Philadelphia cheese steak places. The only flaw is that the default cheese for the steaks is Cheez Whiz, so if you want provolone or American instead, be sure to ask for it. $6.19.

7313B Baltimore Ave., College Park. 301-209-7007. http://www.southstreetsteaks.com/ .