Hometown Heroes

Three Writers Search for a Taste of the Familiar

PO' BOYS

Along with jambalaya, bread pudding and Abita beer, a po' boy is a New Orleans dietary staple. It is made with two pieces of airy French bread -- preferably from the famous New Orleans bakery Leidenheimer -- traditionally stuffed to overflowing with cold cuts or fried seafood. It is slathered with mayonnaise and topped with shredded lettuce and tomatoes. Just looking at one might give you a heart attack -- but it would be worth it.

Po' boy is short for "poor boy," so named because the sandwiches tend to be cheap and filling. They're normally served at lunch at both white tablecloth restaurants and corner stands. Usually, they require several napkins. If napkins aren't available, just make do. I'm from New Orleans, so I can tell you: We don't judge. This is the city where kids get vacation from school during Mardi Gras, Gennifer Flowers is a cabaret performer and residents still root for the Saints. Po' boy juice running down your arm is nothing.

One year at Jazz Fest, a friend ordered a fried turkey po' boy and a side order of cracklin' and then plopped down on the ground for an impromptu picnic. (If you don't know what cracklin' is, it's probably best left that way.) My friend stuffed the cracklin' inside his po' boy and crunched away. I think I was drinking a daiquiri. It was the middle of the day. That's the other thing about New Orleans food: It's indulgent. After all, life is short. Who wants to spend it counting calories?

To get my fix of po' boys on the Potomac, I visited these local restaurants.

ACADIANA RESTAURANT

Before this restaurant even opened its doors in September, it held a po' boy fundraiser to benefit the victims of Hurricane Katrina -- and scored a point in my book. The swanky spot serves up one of the area's most authentic po' boys, and those in the know order the fried shrimp version. (It's not on the menu, but you can ask for it.) Bottles of Tabasco -- made in Avery Island, La., and the hot sauce of choice in the Big Easy -- stand at the ready on tables. The toothpick in the sandwich is decorated with a fleur-de-lis. Most important, the fried shrimp in my po' boy were big and crispy, and the bread was Leidenheimer's, though it was a little too toasted. Fancy touches such as a side of chipotle red pepper tartar sauce and biscuits served with cream butter and pepper jelly dress up the meal. But those extras don't come at poor boy prices. The fried shrimp po' boy, as well as the oyster and barbecue shrimp versions, will set you back $13. The roast beef goes for $12. (Lunch only.)

901 New York Ave. NW. 202-408-8848. http://www.acadianarestaurant.com/ .

CANTINA MARINA

I headed to the Waterfront because I'd heard that there were good po' boys to be had at the Maine Avenue Fish Market. This isn't exactly true. There's good fried seafood, but it's served up on plain white bread. So I walked over to Cantina Marina to see if it had the real deal. The po' boy selection is limited, just fried shrimp or catfish. The seafood was fried up light and crispy, and the shrimp in particular stood out on my visit. Po' boys are served with either cocktail or tartar sauce on the side, likely a nod to Washington waistlines but a tragic affront to mayonnaise in my mind. Still, with restaurant's beachy atmosphere, lively bar and waterfront location, it's hard to do anything but laissez les bon temps rouler . $12.

600 Water St. SW. 202-554-8396. http://www.cantinamarina.com/ .

LOUISIANA EXPRESS COMPANY