DETAILS

India

GETTING THERE: The least expensive option is to fly to New Delhi; flights in October, when less scorching temperatures make for better travel, start at $1,100, on Continental from BWI via Newark. American flies from Dulles via Chicago for the same price. After that 16- to 18-hour flight, it's a 40-minute hop to Jaipur on Jet Airways or Indian Airlines, for $135 to $160 round trip.

Flights from D.C. to Jaipur generally involve more connections and money. KLM, for instance, flies from Dulles to Jaipur, with connections in Amsterdam and New Delhi, for $2,274. The trip takes 28 hours.

GETTING AROUND: It's best to rent a car. The rate for a full day's drive (basically, about 150 miles) runs between $25 and $35.

Over two weeks, I covered about 620 miles to reach three villages. Samode lies 26 miles north of Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Keep going north and you'll reach Neemrana about three hours later. To reach the last village, Haldighati, turn around and journey south, toward Udaipur. It's a full-day's drive but well worth it.

WHERE TO STAY: If Jaipur is your base, check out Umaid Bhawan (D1-2A, Behind Collectorate, via Bank Road, 011-91-141- 2316184, http://www.umaidbhawan.com/ ; doubles from about $35), a new budget hotel that includes hand-painted interiors and spacious rooms. Closer to the villages, you'll find luxury hotels. In Samode, Samode Bagh (011-91-1423-240235, http://www.samode.com/ ) is a 20-acre garden retreat with 44 air-conditioned tents that include marble bathrooms and private verandas. Doubles from $100 May through September, $125 October through April, including breakfast. Traditional Rajasthani food is also available. Overlooking the village of Neemrana, Neemrana Fort-Palace (011-91-1494-246007, http://www.neemranahotels.com/neemrana ; doubles from $55) is a 542-year-old fort converted into a hotel. The grounds include a swimming pool, amphitheater and "loos with views."

WHERE TO EAT: The biggest challenge of a road trip through Rajasthan is finding a safe place to eat. By the highway, you'll spot dhabas , shacks offering home-cooked meals. But if you're not willing to play Russian roulette with your stomach, here's the safest bet: Reliance gas stations, which include their own restaurants. From rotis to samosas, you'll find a range of tasty, clean food for about $2.

GUIDES: India's Ministry of Tourism offers tours through rural India upon request. To get your trip underway, visit its main Web site, http://www.incredibleindia.org/ . Under "Plan Your Trip," a dropdown menu includes agents; the subcategory of domestic agents lists phone numbers and e-mail addresses for government-approved tour operators in each state. Average daily rates for a guide run from $20 to $40.

A government-approved travel agency in the United States, A Touch of Class Tours (800-203-0438, http://www.atoctours.com/ ), also can arrange for guides to rural areas in Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh.

WHAT TO TAKE: Bottled water should top your list, but when you buy it in India, make sure it's a reputable brand, such as Aquafina, and that the bottle cap has a serrated seal -- otherwise you may be drinking tap water.

INFORMATION: Explore Rural India , http://www.exploreruralindia.org/ . India Ministry of Tourism , 800-953-9399, http://www.tourisminindia.com/ . Rajasthan Department of Tourism , http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/ .

-- Lisa Singh