Wednesday, July 5, 2006; F05

POPCORN SHRIMP AND CALAMARI

Summer and fried seafood somehow go together. At Hank's Oyster Bar, it's always the season for Popcorn Shrimp and Calamari ($8), served with cayenne remoulade sauce. Says chef Jamie Leeds, "I can't take it off the menu. It's been there since we opened." Leeds marinates rock shrimp and calamari (cleaned and sliced in-house) in buttermilk, then dips them in a spiced flour to get a nice crunch when they are deep-fried together. "The flour is lighter than a traditional batter," she says. "People love to share an order with drinks as a starter."

Hank's Oyster Bar, 1624 Q St. NW, 202-462-4265.

-- Judith Weinraub

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