THE WEEKLY DISH

TOM SIETSEMA

OPEN FOR BUSINESS (AGAIN): The rough-hewn wooden deck? Gone. The predictable seafood menu? Expanded and made more fun. And a diner's chances of getting a warm bottle of red wine at the remodeled Black's Bar & Kitchen (7750 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda; 301-652-5525) are now virtually nil, thanks to a wine display that keeps its contents at a flattering 57 degrees.

Executive chef Mallory Buford , who relocated from Addie's in Rockville, says he couldn't be happier with his new workspace, which is four times the size of his old kitchen and employs six more workers. The extra space and the extra cooks mean the 35-year-old chef can "do more creative stuff," which includes making boudin blanc for his glammed-up corn dogs -- one of many new small plates -- and serving a whole fried fish that appears to have been caught mid-swim and dipped in oil. Staged with red snapper on a recent visit, the crisp golden entree curls around fluffy couscous mixed with orange and cucumber.

The new menu at Black's brims with great ideas. One is a simple appetizer of red and yellow tomatoes, splashed with a refreshing cucumber vinaigrette. Another is a main dish of cod treated to chorizo, clams, soft garlic and lemon zest -- a journey to Portugal in every bite. And blackberry strudel with roasted peaches and sweet corn ice cream reminds us what a glorious season this is for produce.

The made-over space is easy on the eyes, and a woodsy mural in the softly lighted dining room helps bring the outdoors inside. Which reminds us: You'd better make a reservation. The reconfigured interior counts 82 seats, 40 fewer than before -- and every one taken when we dropped by.

Entrees, lunch $9-$18, dinner $22-$27.