DETAILS

Argentina's Estancia

GETTING THERE: Several airlines offer service from the Washington area to Buenos Aires. United flies nonstop from Dulles for about $1,550. Connecting service is available on Delta from Dulles, American from National and Continental from BWI starting at about $1,150, with restrictions. From Buenos Aires to El Calafate, Aerolineas Argentinas has a regular daily flight for $270 round trip.

A local travel agent is useful for internal hotel and flight arrangements. We used Ricardo Musi at Ryans Travel (011-54-11-4322-6155, http://www.ryanstravel.com/ ) and Ripio Turismo (011-54-11-4855-4684, http://www.ripioturismo.com/ ).

ESTANCIAS IN THE PAMPAS: Most can be reached by car in two hours or less from Buenos Aires. San Antonio de Areco, 70 minutes from the city, is in the heart of traditional gaucho country and features a museum and many antiques and souvenir shops. The following estancias in that area offer lodging, food, horseback riding, hiking, swimming, ranch activities and transport from Buenos Aires.

· El Ombu (011-54-2326-492080, http://www.estanciaelombu.com/ ; from $220 per room double, with all meals, wine and snacks included) offers six doubles and three triple rooms, all with bath, 19th-century furnishings and iron stove. Built in 1880, the Italianate palazzo serves monumental parilladas (barbecues) outdoors on a manicured lawn or around the two swimming pools.

· La Bamba (011-54-2326-456293, http://www.la-bamba.com.ar/ ; from $320, including all meals, riding and other activities; discounts for longer stays). Many times a set for gaucho movies, it has three buildings to house 23 guests in 12 rooms, one with fireplace, and offers polo lessons and matches, a "folklore" music show and the usual riding, swimming and demonstrations of gaucho skills.

PATAGONIA ESTANCIAS: Perhaps the most exclusive and well known is the Estancia Helsingfors (011-54- 2966- 420719, http://www.helsingfors.com.ar/ ), open from October to March and located on the shore of Lake Viedma, about 110 miles from El Calafate. Helsingfors offers lodging, horseback riding, overflights, bird- watching, boat trips, and fine dining. Rates from $396 per night double with bath.

The following estancias offer lodging, a restaurant, horseback riding, trekking, vehicle excursions and transportation (extra) from El Calafate.

· Estancia La Maipu (011-54-11-4901-5591, http://www.estancialamaipu.com.ar/ ; from $150, including meals, snacks and wine with dinner) is 160 miles from El Calafate, near the Chilean border, on a mountain bluff overlooking the spectacular Lake San Martin. It offers sheep-ranching activities, hiking, condor-watching and horseback riding for up to 14 guests in a warm family atmosphere.

· Estancia Alta Vista (011-54-2902-491247, e-mail altavista@cotecal.com.ar ; from $375, with breakfast, or $1,185 for a two-night package including all meals), 20 miles from El Calafate near Lake Roca, is open October through March and offers ranch activities and fishing.

INFORMATION: The Argentina Tourism Office (212-603-0443, http://www.turismo.gov.ar/ ) can provide general info on travel to the country and estancias. Several Web sites, including Welcome Argentina ( http://www.welcomeargentina.com/ ) and EstanciaTravel.com ( http://www.estanciastravel.com/ ), are also good resources on estancias.

-- Joanne Omang