DETAILS

Newport, R.I.

GETTING THERE: Southwest is among the airlines offering service from the Washington area to Providence; fares start at about $137 round trip from BWI, with restrictions. If you don't want to rent a car for the 40-minute ride to Newport, consider Cozy Cab (800-846-1502, http://www.cozytrans.com/ ), which offers van service for $20 a person.

WHERE TO STAY: The Chanler Hotel at Cliff Walk (117 Memorial Blvd., 866- 793-5664, http://www.chanlerhotel.com/ ; from $295 to $495 a night double, including continental breakfast; two-night minimum stay on weekends) is one of the original Newport mansions. It's now a boutique hotel offering Gilded Age panache without the pomp. The 20 super-spacious guest rooms are grandly furnished and come with such over-the-top extras as Jacuzzis, ocean views and big-screen TVs. Here and throughout the city, rooms are tough to get in the May-to-October high season.

The Melville House (39 Clarke St., 800-711-7184, http://www.melvillehouse.com/ ; from $219 in season to $89 off-season) is a classic New England B&B. Its seven rooms are a tad small and two have a shared bath, but all are neat and quaintly attired. Rates include a hearty breakfast, wireless Internet and light afternoon fare.

The Marshall Slocum Guest House (29 Kay St., 800-372-5120, http://www.marshallslocuminn.com/ ; from $250 in season to $155 off-season, including full breakfast) is a perky five-room B&B with inviting, well-furnished rooms and attentive service. Extras include a huge lawn and free on-site parking.

WHERE TO EAT: Guests celebrating a no-holds-barred special occasion should ease into a candlelit table at Spiced Pear (401-847-2244) in the Chanler Hotel. Highlights on the menu include pan-seared duck breast, Kobe beef tenderloin and poached arctic char. Entrees average $35.

For purely blissful scallop chowder, cornmeal-crusted cod loin or any other kind of seafood, the Mooring (Sayer's Wharf, 401-846-2260) is the place. Entrees at the waterside restaurant average $25. To hang with the locals, go to Black Pearl (Bannister's Wharf, 401-846-5264), known for its clam chowder, salads and burgers. Lunch for two in the Tavern, one of three sections at Black Pearl, is about $25.

WHAT TO DO:

· The biggest Newport mansions, with a couple of exceptions, are managed by the Preservation Society of Newport County. Since tour times and prices vary ($15 to $25 per person), it's best to check the society's Web site ( http://www.newportmansions.org/ ) or call 401-847-1000. The best deal is the $31 Newport Mansions Experience ticket, which allows entrance to any five of its 11 mansions, except for one.

Tours of Rough Point, Doris Duke's estate, are $25 and can be purchased from the Newport Visitor Center (see Information below) or the Newport Restoration Foundation (401-849-7300).

The tours of Astors' Beechwood (401-846-3772, http://www.astorsbeechwood.com/ ), conducted by a troupe of actors, are great for families. They cost $18 for adults and $45 for a family of up to six.

· Sail Newport (60 Fort Adams Dr., 401-846-1983, http://www.sailnewport.org/ ) offers private sailing lessons that run $78 per hour on weekends, $65 on weekdays; small group classes are more economical. Lessons are given daily in season.

· Polo matches are held every Saturday afternoon between May and September at Glen Farm, six miles north of downtown. Entrance is $10. Info: 401-846-0200, http://www.newportpoloclub.com/ .

· America's Cup Charters (401-849-5868, http://www.americascupcharters.com/ ) offers two-hour sunset excursions for $75 aboard the American Eagle or four other America's Cup boats. Less pricey options include a narrated hour-long harbor cruise on the 140-passenger Viking Queen (401-847-6921, http://www.vikingtoursnewport.com/ ) for $12.50 a person.

· The International Tennis Hall of Fame (194 Bellevue Ave., 800-457-1144, http://www.tennisfame.com/ ; $9) is open from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

INFORMATION: Newport County Convention & Visitor's Bureau, 800- 976-5122, http://www.gonewport.com/ .

-- Gary Lee