DETAILS

Birmingham, Ala.

GETTING THERE: Southwest and United both fly nonstop from the Washington area to Birmingham, but the low-fare carrier has the better fares, from $250 round trip. Other carriers, such as US Airways and Delta, also fly there, but with connections and prices closer to $300.

WHERE TO STAY: The Tutwiler (2021 Park Place N., 205-322-2100, http://www.wyndham.com/hotels/BHMTW/main.wnt ), an elegant and historic Wyndham property, is near some of city's main cultural and historical sites, such as the Birmingham Museum of Art and the Civil Rights District. The rooms are spacious yet standard, with all the amenities you'd expect from a high-end chain. Nightly rates from $109 to $239 double. The Sheraton (2101 Richard Arrington Jr. Blvd. N., 205-324-5000, http://www.starwoodhotels.com/ ) is a hulking 757-room hotel with two restaurants and a skywalk to the convention center. Rooms from $129. The Pickwick Hotel (1023 20th St. S., 800-255-7304, http://www.pickwickhotel.com/ ) sits in the thick of Five Points South, a district teeming with restaurants, bars and shops. Rates of $94 (standard) and $119 (suite) include breakfast and weekday wine and cheese.

WHERE TO EAT: Indecisive diners should wander around Five Points South. Among the choices: healthful fare such as Greek salad ($7.50) and hummus sandwiches ($4.95) at Golden Temple Vegetarian Cafe (1901 11th Ave. S., 205-933-8933); barbecue (from $9) and ribs (half-rack from $14) plates at Jim 'N Nicks Bar-B-Q (1912 11th Ave. S., 205-320-1060) and sushi at Sakura (1025 20th St. S., 205-933- 1025), which offers midnight weekend specials. The city's most celebrated restaurant is Highlands Bar and Grill (2011 11th Ave. S., 205-939-1400), which prepares such upscale entrees as black grouper with fennel ($29) and veal sweetbreads and chicken ($28). Its companion cafe, Chez Fonfon, serves less-pricey eats next door. For breakfast, dig into a tall stack at the Original Pancake House (1931 11th Ave. S., 205-933- 8837), which features nearly 20 flavors of flapjacks (from $4.15).

For a different scene, grab an outdoor table at Rojo (2921 Highland Ave. S., 205- 328-4733), in the Highland neighborhood, and feast on Latin dishes like paella ($10.25) and fish tacos ($10.25). In Lakeview, wash down the mid-priced Mexican food at Cantina Tortilla Grill (2901 Second Ave. S., 205-323-6980) with a martini at the scenester-ish Amani Raha (2901 Second Ave. S., 205-323-0047).

WHAT TO DO: Explore the six blocks of sites inside the Civil Rights District : the Alabama Jazz Hall of Fame (Fourth Avenue North at 17th Street, 205-254- 2731, http://www.jazzhall.com;/ $2 admission, $3 guided tours) and the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church (1530 Sixth Ave. N., 205- 251-9402), which has a small exhibit of the church's 1960s events as well as Sunday services with gospel. Sloss Furnaces (20 32nd St. N., 205-324-1911, http://www.slossfurnaces.com/ ) is open for free tours of its 19th-century iron-producing facility, in addition to the odd concert. And for great views, ride to the top of the Vulcan (1701 Valley View Dr., 205-933-1409, http://www.vulcanpark.org/ ; $6), the world's largest cast-iron statue.

There's no end of clubs and other performing arts venues. Ona's Music Room (423 20th St. S., 205-322-4662; $5-$15) ranks high among jazz enthusiasts, but for more of a mixture, check out WorkPlay (500 23rd St. S., 205-879- 4773, http://www.workplay.com/ ) for shows ranging from alt-country to R&B. Cover varies. One of the newest clubs to open is the Bottletree (3719 Third Ave. S., 205- 533-6288; $8-$12), which showcases rising as well as established Birmingham and national bands. And for those who can't sleep, stay up late for the Nick (2514 10th Ave. S., 205-252-3831; free to $12), which might be slightly dingy but hosts some great acts, national and local. For a listing of shows and events, pick up any of the free alternative papers, such as City Scene or the Birmingham Weekly.

INFO: Birmingham Convention and Visitors Bureau , 800-458-8085, http://www.bcvb.org/ .

-- Andrea Sachs