Sunday, July 23, 2006; P04
A decade ago, Marie and Francois Pillet were looking to escape the bustle of Paris and breathe the lavender-scented air of Provence. The couple -- he an architect, she a decorator -- arrived in the South of France with dreams of producing their own wine. They attended wine school and set out shopping for a vineyard. But prices had reached an all-time high, putting the dream out of their reach.
That's when Plan B came in. Or rather, Plan B&B.
They fell in love with the Vaucluse countryside, about 45 minutes by car northeast of Avignon, at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail -- the famous range of short, steep mountains topped by gothic-like spires of rock. Here, amid forests of pines, live oaks and low-growing Mediterranean garrigue (scrubland) -- and vineyards and farmhouses renovated by foreigners following the trail of Peter Mayle -- they decided to build and run a bed-and-breakfast inn.
But not just any B&B. After extensive research, the Pillets decided to cultivate a spice that had been grown in the South of France for centuries and then disappeared more than 100 years ago: saffron, which is nothing more than the precious plucked stigmas of Crocus sativus .
The result is L'Aube Safran, their stylish five-room inn, surrounded by apricot trees, saffron cultivation and a forest that contributes to the magical panorama of the Dentelles.
No detail is overlooked. Francois designed a modern Provencal country house and pool that makes use of the dramatic views and folds into the landscape. Marie decorated and painted the large, airy rooms in a series of lime wash finishes. If the final product looks like the kind of place you see in one of those glossy home-design magazines, it's because the place has appeared in them.
As a nation in the 21st century, France may have its share of dysfunctionality, but places like this know how to roll out the relaxed savoir faire more than anywhere else in the world.
Breakfast started with a hearty "bonjour " and was nothing like the industrial rolls and pre-packaged buffet you find at most hotels. In the dining area off the large chef's kitchen, Francois and Marie spoil their guests with homemade jams, croissants, yogurt and local fruit juices. In fact, just about everything here is homemade, except for the milk, butter and les corn flakes our 11-year-old ordered. Breakfast on our second day included crepes, cakes and a selection of goat cheeses from local farmers.
The Pillets were helpful in providing pointers and maps for our hikes in the Dentelles and explorations of the countryside and nearby wine country.
And of course, there is saffron. The harvest takes place in fall. The couple and their friends gather up around 200,000 flowers, which must be hand-plucked, all to make a little more than two pounds of saffron. Marie, who has developed her own saffron concoctions, such as pear and saffron compote, prepares dinner on weekends and other nights -- usually using saffron.
In fact, our only regret during our two-night stay was that it fell on a Tuesday and Wednesday, Marie's nights off. Next time we'll plan our visit around her cooking schedule.
-- Robert V. Camuto
Rooms at L'Aube Safran (Chemin de Patifiage, Le Barroux, 011-33-490-62-66 91, http://www.aube-safran.com) start at about $113 per night, including breakfast. Dinner with wine is about $38 per person.