Harry Olivieri, The Man Wit' A Steak in His City

Since then, Pat's King of Steaks (so named because his brother, who died in the 1970s, was nine years older), has sold countless thousands, putting the cheese steak in the panoply of culinary greats such as Chicago's half smokes and Boston's lobster rolls.

For 45 years, Pat's was open 24/7, closing only for holidays starting in 1975, when Maria began insisting on having the family home for Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's and Easter.

The cheese steak store on Ninth Street where it crosses Wharton and Passyunk avenues became a mecca for politicians, who learned that if they came to Pat's, "you can swing a few of the Italians, and that few will swing the rest for you," Olivieri said. Entertainers learned the same thing; from the performers who'd come after the shows at Palumbo's down the street to "American Idol" contestant Justin Guarini, who'd come to Pat's and sing for votes.

Harry Olivieri's invention produced its own competition, when Jim's, Joe's and then Geno's opened across the street. The rivalry between the Olivieri brothers and the owner of Geno's has been long-standing, though Harry, raised a Quaker, always declined to disparage the competition.

His daughter, Maria, is determined to maintain the tradition.

"They do a nice business on our overflow," she says.

Besides, she says, the Olivieri brothers' contribution to society has been noted in the nearby Franklin Institute.

"My father is just as famous as the man who created the wheel," she says, "except the wheel is a little less fattening and it won't end up on your hips."