ESCAPE KEYS

THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL IN MARYLAND: The 41-mile Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail stretches from the Pennsylvania border to the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, W.Va. Unless you hike out and back or arrange to be picked up, you'll need to leave one car at the end and drive another to your starting point. At the northern end, you can park free just outside of Pen Mar Park (14600 Pen Mar High Rock Rd., Cascade, Md, 240-313-2700, http://www.washco-md.net/public_works/parks/penmar.htm ). At the southern end, you can leave your car at the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park for $6 (304-535-6029, http://www.nps.gov/hafe ).

For those not up to the full Maryland Challenge, the route still offers a fantastic array of easy to moderate hiking, with five three-sided covered shelters and one established backcountry campground evenly positioned along the trail. Though flat ground is hard to come by in the roller-coaster topography, there are cleared sections near most shelters. Consider giving yourself four nights, starting midday at Pen Mar Park and hiking south, traversing 4.9 miles to Devils Racecourse Shelter, a mile off the trail. The next night, bed down at Pine Knob Shelter (Mile 18) and the third night in Rocky Run Shelter (Mile 25.5). This pace will allow time for side trips to scenic attractions such as Black Rock Cliffs, Annapolis Rock and White Rock Cliff.

WHERE TO STAY: In Harpers Ferry, try the Angler's Inn (867 W. Washington St., 304-535-1239, http://www.theanglersinn.com/ ), a Victorian bed-and-breakfast with a wraparound porch, private sitting rooms and gourmet breakfasts. Rates vary by season, starting at $85 on weekdays, $95 on weekends. If all you want is a bed, shower and basic cable, the Comfort Inn (U.S. Highway 340 and Union Street, 877-424-6423) offers these just beyond downtown. Rates start at $70.

WHERE TO EAT: The Secret Six Tavern (186 High St., Harpers Ferry, 304-535-3044) offers classic pub fare with expansive views of the Potomac River from its wide balcony. The beer selection is a godsend after hiking, and the proprietors won't look at you cross-eyed if you're in sweat-stained hiking gear. Expect to pay $15 to $25 a person for dinner.

INFO: Appalachian Trail Conservancy , 304-535-6331, http://www.appalachiantrail.org/ .