DETAILS

Cape Cod, Mass.

GETTING THERE: Cape Cod is roughly 75 miles from T.F. Green International Airport near Providence, R.I., and Boston's Logan International. Many major airlines serve one or both of these cities from the D.C. area, with nonstop fares starting at $120 round trip from BWI (American or AirTran to Boston, or Southwest to Providence). Flights from Dulles start at about $150.

Renting a car is a good idea, as beaches and other attractions are spread across 400 square miles. You can also take mass transportation from the airports: Plymouth and Brockton Street Railway (508-746-0378; http://www.p-b.com/ ) provides daily bus service from Logan to a handful of cape towns, starting at $22 one way. Bonanza Bus Lines (888-751-8800, http://www.bonanzabus.com/ ) runs between Providence and Hyannis, also starting at $22 one way.

WHERE TO STAY: We stayed in a rental house in the town of Orleans. The house, booked through American Heritage Realty (800-420-1776, http://www.capecodforsale.com/ ), slept 10 and cost around $3,500 for the week. It was waterfront -- on a narrow neck of Pleasant Bay -- but many homes on the cape are not.

Other options in Orleans include the Orleans Inn (3 Old Country Rd., 800-863-3039, http://www.orleansinn.com/ ; doubles from $175 a night), an 1875 sea captain's mansion on the water, and the Cove (13 S. Orleans Rd., 800-343-2233, http://www.thecoveorleans.com/ ; from $119 in season, from $64 otherwise), a simple waterfront hotel on the town cove.

WHERE TO EAT: In Orleans, we had excellent stuffed sea clams at Land Ho! (Route 6A and Cove Road, 508-255-5165; grill fare under $10 for lunch and dinner) and delectable tuna and Cape Codder cocktails at the more upscale Joe's Beach Road Bar and Grille (5 Beach Rd., 508-255- 0212; most entrees from $15 to $20).

In Provincetown, hit the Townsend Lobster & Seafood Market (508-487- 5161) on Fisherman's Wharf) and, cholesterol be damned, order the New England clam chowder ($4.50) and lobster roll ($10.99).

BEACHES: With nearly 44,000 acres of protected national seashore -- stretching almost 40 miles, from north of Provincetown to near Chatham -- plus myriad town beaches, there's enough sand and ocean access to go around. We enjoyed the sparse coastal beauty of Nauset Beach, near Orleans, and Race Point Beach on the cape's northern tip. Some beaches have facilities, including bathrooms, showers and snack bars; others do not. Fees to enter national parkland: $15 per day per vehicle; $3 per day for pedestrians or cyclists; $45 for an annual pass. Cape Cod National Seashore info: 508-349-3785, http://www.nps.gov/caco .

OTHER ACTIVITIES: Rent kayaks from Ride Away (3700A State Hwy., Eastham, 508-247-0827; http://www.rideawaykayaks.com/ ; $20 to rent a single for three hours, $29 for six, $39 for a day). The friendly staff will meet you at designated put-in spots or secure the boats to your roof; they also lead tours. We put in on a marsh inside Nauset Bay, and on another day paddled pockets of Pleasant Bay.

Cycle rental shops include Barbara's Bike and Blade (508-896-7231, http://www.barbsbikeshop.com/index/shop2.htm ); it's on Route 6A just west of the entrance to Nickerson State Park and has mountain and cruiser bikes from $12 for up to two hours. The Cape Cod Rail Trail is a paved, mostly flat path running 22 miles through the towns of Dennis, Harwich, Brewster, Orleans, Eastham and Wellfleet. Nickerson State Park ( http://www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/southeast/nick.htm ) has paved and dirt trails. Both the rail and park trails lead to scenic kettle ponds.

INFORMATION: Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, 888-332-2732, http://www.capecodchamber.org/ .

-- John Briley