DETAILS

Iceland

Iceland is the second-largest island in Europe, located just below the Arctic Circle. The official language is Icelandic, but nearly everyone in Reykjavik speaks English as well.

GETTING THERE: Icelandair, which flies nonstop from BWI, is quoting a round-trip fare of $580, including taxes and surcharges, if you leave Aug. 16 or later and return Aug. 24 or later. Look for even cheaper fares in the winter. Numerous airlines connect from Reagan National and Dulles to Icelandair in New York, but the nonstop flight from BWI is the cheapest option.

GETTING AROUND: Central Reykjavik's shopping and night-life hub is small enough to get around on foot, though expensive taxis and relatively cheap city buses can bring you farther out. There's no train system, so traveling to other parts of the country requires tour buses, domestic flights or car rentals.

People drive on the right side of the road, and signs on the main highways are simple to read. Many roads into Iceland's more remote areas are not paved, so choose your rental car wisely.

WHEN TO GO: For a road trip, late April to late September is the best time to go, when there's a lot of light during the day to see where you're heading, and daytime temperatures usually range from 45 to 60 degrees or so. Also, many hotels outside Reykjavik are open only during those months. Driving and camping conditions are too difficult in the winter. But because of the Gulf Stream, winters are milder than one expects; the temperature averages 35 degrees in December and January and usually doesn't get below 20.

WHERE TO STAY: In Reykjavik, the recently renovated Hotel Borg (11 Posthusstrati, 011-354-551-1440, http://www.hotelborg.is/ ; about $400 for a double room in the summer) has old-fashioned charm. 101 Hotel (10 Hverfisgata, 011-354-5800-101, http://www.101hotel.is/ ; from about $375) is ultra-hip in its sleek minimalism; the owner is a design graduate of Parsons. Guesthouses are popular in Reykjavik and less expensive. Guesthouse Sunna (26 Thorsgata, 011-354- 511-5570, http://www.sunna.is/ ; about $170 for a double with a bathroom, $185 with buffet breakfast) is in the old town area. It also offers apartment-like accommodations for up to five people.

On my road trip, I stayed at the Hotel Hellnar (356 Snaefellsbaer, 011-354-435-6820, http://www.hellnar.is/ ; summer rates from $165) on the Snaefellsness peninsula. It's clean and efficient, with pretty ocean views. There are no accommodations around Landmannalaugar, the hot springs area in Iceland's southern interior; you'll have to camp. For gear, it's easiest to choose from a couple of stores at Kringlan (4-12 Kringlunni, 011-354-568-9200), Reykjavik's largest mall.

WHERE TO EAT: In Reykjavik, the value of the international menu at Vegamot (4 Vegamotastig, 011-354-511-3040) is amazing considering its high-end, fashionable setting; dinner for two runs about $60. Apotek (16 Austurstraeti, 011-354- 575-7900), which serves sushi along with other international dishes, is still the place to go if you have the money. Plan on spending at least $200 for dinner for two, including drinks.

If you don't have the money, Iceland's bizarrely delicious hot dogs called pylsur can be found just about anywhere (at $3.50, they're the cheapest meal you can get in the capital). For the midnight munchies, the "boat" sandwiches (they're long and carry a lot of stuff) at Hloella Batar (Ingolfstorg Square) are jaw-droppingly good and jaw-droppingly pricey for sidewalk food: Expect to pay about $12. Overall, it's a smart idea to make a few visits to a supermarket in Reykjavik, and when you're driving around; try the chain store Bonus.

On the road, we found Fjoeruhusid , (011-354 - 435-6844) a charming, secluded lunch-and-dinner cafe at the bottom of the cliffs at Hellnar; it serves espresso and a limited food menu that includes pastries, pasta dishes and a locally famous fish soup. Food prices were $10 to $20.

WHAT TO DO: For activities in Reykjavik, check out Iceland Review Online ( http://www.icelandreview.com/ ) and the Grapevine, a free alternative weekly, for the latest happenings.

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon spa (240 Grindavik, 011-354-420-8800, http://www.bluelagoon.com/ ) is $19 for adults, slightly cheaper for senior citizens and half-off for teenagers. Another muckier option: The slightly slimy pool grounds at Lysuholl (356 Snaefellsbaer, 011-354-435-6716) are actually on a horse farm with a riding school on the Snaefellsnes peninsula that sometimes offers its facilities during the summer, so entrance and fees are at the school's discretion.

For driving directions and maps to Snaelfellsnes and Landmannalaugur, contact the Icelandic Tourist Board (see below).

INFORMATION: Icelandic Tourist Board, 212-885-9700, http://www.visiticeland.com/ .

-- Tommy Nguyen