For Exotica

With more heat ahead, we looked for cool soups and even cooler treats -- including ice cream from a Washington institution and frozen desserts that come together in a snap.

In the world of frozen confections, there is nothing wrong with plain vanilla. Still, we thought it was time to dig a little deeper into the barrel and come up with some scoops of tropical fruit-inspired ice cream and sorbet made by small, independent stores. But consider: If you have your heart set on, say, bitter orange at a particular shop, it's always best to call ahead for availability. Most ice cream and sorbet makers like to rotate their flavor selections.

DAIRY GODMOTHER

The specialty at this Del Ray neighborhood gathering spot is frozen custard. But owner Liz Davis says sales of tropical sorbet (five or six flavors, $2.60 per scoop) are way up this summer. Favorites include West Indian lime made with fresh bay leaf and clove, Thai coconut with ginger and galangal, and a potent sangria made with Spanish red wine and flavored with lemon, lime and orange.

2310 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-683-7767.http://www.thedairygodmother.com.

DOLCEZZA

Like litchi? Partners Dimas Rodriguez, Violeta Edelman and Robb Duncan offer creamy-textured, Argentine-style sorbet in litchi and other fruity flavors, such as pina colada and mango/lime/chili (30 flavors, $4 per scoop).

1560 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-333-4646.http://www.dolcezzagelato.com.

ISLAND STYLE ICE CREAM

Owner Pancita Brydson thinks that ginger ice cream hits the spot on a hot day. But her soursop (also known as guanabana), mango, guava and coconut ice creams (20 flavors, $2.20 per scoop) also offer a taste of Jamaica. Repeat customers return for the island-style stout ice cream and the Grape-Nuts ice cream -- vanilla studded with crunchy cereal.

3829 34th St., Mount Rainier; 301-927-0066.http://www.islandstyleicecream.com.

SAM'S CAFE & MARKET

Iran native Sam Motaghi has developed 84 flavors of gelato -- Italian-style ice cream -- and features 36 at any one time at his exceptional Middle Eastern market. Widely popular flavors include mango and bitter orange, as well as Persian vanilla with rosewater and saffron. Iranian customers favor hazelnut and pistachio. A single-scoop cone is $1.99.

Ritchie Center, 765 Rockville Pike, Rockville; 301-424-1600.

SWEETOOTH ICE CREAM & PASTRY

Exotic flavors are a specialty at this sweet shop, which opened over Memorial Day weekend. Husband-and-wife owners Nouhad and Sanna Hamdan use only fresh fruit in preparing their 23 flavors ($2.39 per scoop). Delicately flavored lucuma, imported from Peru, is the seasonal hit. But you might like to try the couple's tamarindo, coconut, papaya or passion fruit ice cream. Fruit smoothies are made to order.

410 S. Sterling Blvd., Sterling; 703-421-7772.

YORK CASTLE TROPICAL ICE CREAM

Caribbean-inspired ice cream is the focus at owner Caroline Tay's parlor. There are 15 tropical flavors ($2.99 per scoop) including soursop, guava and passion fruit. But Tay says the most requested is Guinness stout-flavored ice cream.

9324 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring; 301-589-1616.