Snowshoe: Up, Up and Away

Back on the mountain, after I'd peeled off my body armor and scraped off a layer of mud, I got in the car and drove over hill and over dale north about 20 minutes from Snowshoe to Green Bank for a tour of the National Radio Astronomy Observatory. The observatory is home to the Robert C. Byrd radio telescope, which is 485 feet tall, weighs nearly 17 million pounds, has an area of 2.3 acres, is covered with 2,000 individually adjustable aluminum panels each about the size of a queen mattress and is the largest moving structure on land. A science center and engrossing free tour introduced me to the observatory's work and its resources. The telescope peers deep, deep into space and across tens of thousands of light-years, and therefore it's so sensitive that you can't use a digital camera on-site for risk of causing radio-wave interference. It sits here in West Virginia in the middle of a 13,000-square-mile officially designated radio "quiet zone," which is why you should not bother trying to call home on your cellphone while you are visiting the area.

But then, you did come here to get away from it all, didn't you?

That evening, I stopped for dinner at Suzi's Sweet Shoppe and Diner, near Snowshoe's western entrance on Route 66. A confection of winking nostalgia, Suzi's is cozy and candy-colored and serves breakfast all day -- my No. 1 rule for a good diner -- along with burgers, sandwiches, salads and some seriously tempting freshly made desserts. I left with a chocolate milkshake and arrived back at Elk River just as a hill-shaking clap of thunder signaled the return of the rain that had held off all day. In the morning, I'd be headed back home to the heat index warnings. Tonight, I left the window open.

ACTIVITIES

POCAHONTAS COUNTY Start your visit to the area with the Pocahontas County Convention and Visitors Bureau Web site at http://www.pocahontascountywv.com/ for detailed information about lodging, dining and activities in the area, or call 800-336-7009. A visitors center is open year-round at Eighth Street and Fourth Avenue in Marlinton and seasonally at other locations in the county.

SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT Entrances to the resort are on Routes 219 and 66 between Cass and Slatyfork. Complete information about attractions, events, accommodations, lodging and dining at Snowshoe Mountain, as well as online reservations, are available at the resort's Web site, http://www.snowshoemtn.com/ . 877-441-4386 or 304-572-1000.

MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE CENTER Mountain biking instructional tours, trail passes and bikes and protective gear rental are available through the Mountain Adventure Center in the Village. 304-572-5917.

GREENBRIER RIVER TRAIL Runs 80 miles from Caldwell to Cass. Information including maps and access points is available at http://www.greenbrierrivertrail.com/ or contact the Pocahontas County visitors bureau.

CASS SCENIC RAILROAD STATE PARK Route 66 in Cass. 304-456-4300 or 800-225-5982. http://www.cassrailroad.com/ . Steam-powered train rides, restored railroad town. Accommodations in restored cottages, cabooses or wilderness cabin accessed by train ride.

GREEN BANK NATIONAL RADIO ASTRONOMY OBSERVATORY Route 92/28 in Green Bank. 304-456-2150, http://www.gb.nrao.edu/ . Free tours daily on the hour from 9 to 6 Memorial Day through Labor Day. Open Wednesday through Sunday 9 to 6 (tours hourly) through October and 10 to 5 (tours at 11, 1 and 3) in winter and spring. Gift shop, cafe and interactive science center on-site. Visitors are welcome to walk or bike the paved road through the grounds.

MONONGAHELA NATIONAL FOREST Detailed information, including an activities guide and online maps, can be found at http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf . 304-636-1800.

LODGING

Summer rate lodging through the Snowshoe reservation services includes mountain-base hotel rooms (less than $100 per night) and mountain hotel rooms and studios and one-, two- and three-bedroom condos and townhouses ($122-$391 per night).

A wide range of Snowshoe and other area rentals can be found through Mountain Valley Properties as well, on Route 66 in Slatyfork. Sample summer rates for Snowshoe properties: one- to five-bedroom condos ($130-$350 per night); multi-bedroom homes and townhomes from $300 per night. 304-572-2210 or 877-572-2210. http://www.snowshoerentals.com/home.aspx .

Other Snowshoe lodging resources are listed on the DC Ski Web site at http://www.dcski.com/resorts/viewprofile.php?resort=snowshoe#lodging .

ELK RIVER TOURING CENTER Route 219/55 in Slatyfork. http://www.ertc.com/ . 304-572-3771, 866-572-3771. Offers fully equipped cabins and B&B lodging, well-marked trails and bicycling and fly-fishing services. Weekend summer lodging rates for two, shared or private bath, from $58 to $75 per night, includes full breakfast. Cabins from $175 to $230 weekends, breakfast not included.

DINING

ELK RIVER TOURING CENTER Route 219/55 in Slatyfork. http://www.ertc.com/ . 304-572-3771, 866-572-3771. Restaurant open evenings Thursday-Sunday 5 to 9. Entrees $16-$26, Thursday-night buffet or international menu $15.95. Reservations suggested.

SUZI'S SWEET SHOPPE AND DINER Routes 66 and 219 at base of Snowshoe Mountain. Classic diner food, freshly baked desserts, ice cream treats, kids' menu, breakfast served all day. Open Fridays and Saturdays 8 to 9, Thursday-Monday 9 to 9, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. 304-572-2253.

Caroline Kettlewell is a regular contributor to Weekend and writes a blog about narrative nonfiction, "Welcome to the Hinterlands," athttp://carolinekettlewell.blogs.com.